tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-41574828939260266802024-03-21T09:22:35.377-07:00Blogging about Myanmar (Burma)Whatelleshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02243872263855557277noreply@blogger.comBlogger12125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4157482893926026680.post-72665585567462751042013-02-10T01:41:00.001-08:002014-11-09T01:39:23.388-08:00TIPS, TRICKS & WISE ADVISE (read before you go)<div style="height: 177px !important; width: 180px !important;">
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<span style="font-family: Courier New;">This is the most tricky part of my blog: with the passage of time I believe a retrospective of our month in Myanmar could be a source of practical information, certainly for travellers without any/little knowledge of Myanmar. That said: these are my reflections and my opinion and everybody is different, so what I hated, might be great fun for someone else or vice verse. So don't judge me for this. I just wrote down how I experienced things, to help you. It was a hell of job to write this blog. I have put an incredible amount of energy, love and care</span><span style="font-family: 'Courier New';"> in it. If you don't agree with me, I totally understand this, but please keep it to yourself and just pretend you never read it :-)</span></h4>
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<strong style="font-family: 'Courier New';"><span style="color: orange; font-size: large;">CLICK ON THE PIC TO SEE ALL OUR PICS AND MOVIES OF OUR TRIP: </span></strong></h4>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/111472804875702311748/MYANMAR?authuser=0&authkey=Gv1sRgCLienJmfzISBzQE&feat=embedwebsite" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><b><img height="200" src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-0gnOI5WRgDo/USISHR_lEpE/AAAAAAAAfyw/gHihdvppNMg/s160-c/MYANMAR.jpg" style="margin: 1px 0px 0px 4px;" width="200" /></b></a></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: 'Courier New';"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="color: orange;">Click for this whole blog as a PDF file </span></span></span><span style="font-family: 'Courier New';"><span style="color: orange;"><a href="https://dl.dropbox.com/u/123454041/Myanmar/Myanmar%20blog%20as%20PDF.pdf" target="_blank"><span style="font-size: x-large;">HERE</span></a><span style="font-size: large;"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: 'Courier New';"><span style="color: orange;"><br /></span></span></b><br />
<strong style="font-family: 'Courier New';"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="color: orange;">Click for an 11 minutes movie compilation </span></span></strong><strong style="font-family: 'Courier New';"><span style="color: orange;"><span style="font-size: x-large;"><a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QCKy0dDAL5Q" target="_blank">HERE</a></span><span style="font-size: large;"> </span></span></strong><br />
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<span style="font-family: 'Courier New';"><span style="color: orange;">ABOUT US</span></span></b><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgg0sWA0NTDNwDieWE81GCofnpfnshxKUkgc5Eutm_bWKFSfwNFCKrgoOyjSxbu7UckgwjkD2rswMycHvM5B6Ls8c74YK3IouIRjllhfgz7etABr-oCDXqtNFz6m1DnI4lPWudMlIOO694/s1600/el+en+klaas.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><b><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgg0sWA0NTDNwDieWE81GCofnpfnshxKUkgc5Eutm_bWKFSfwNFCKrgoOyjSxbu7UckgwjkD2rswMycHvM5B6Ls8c74YK3IouIRjllhfgz7etABr-oCDXqtNFz6m1DnI4lPWudMlIOO694/s200/el+en+klaas.jpg" height="150" width="200" /></b></a><span style="font-family: Courier New;"><b>This was my second time in Myanmar. In 2004 I explored the country on my own, for only ten days. This time I travelled for a whole month (tourist visa is only valid for 28 days) with my boyfriend Klaas. He's 35 and into architecture and I am 42 and freelancer in PR, Marketing & Communication. We live together in an apartment in Amsterdam. We have no kids, because we like to travel instead of raising crying little monsters. </b></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Courier New;">We are pretty experience travellers. I've travelled (solo) in Asia over the past 12 years. This trip was Klaas his 4th time in Asia. Before Asia, he travelled in South America. We like </span><span style="font-family: 'Courier New';">to explore countries independently and we are allergic to group tours, especially the one's with retired elderly, type: white socks, big belly, silly colonial hat or baseball cap, talking loud in their own language, often show no or little interest in the local population as long as their beer is cold and the hotel looks like they have at home. Same same goes for the Japanese and Chinese groups. This sounds very judgemental, I know, but truly the way I feel about group tours (and all the individual travellers I met shared my opinion heavily. I believe even Aung San Suu Kyi is worried about the 'group tour </span><span style="font-family: Courier New;">tourism' that seems to have 'taken over' her country).</span></b></div>
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<span style="color: orange; font-family: Courier New;"><strong>RESEARCH</strong></span></h4>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbLl994vMuxVJvM9Jg3kD_KYRPPG2mXCReCvvODjJSbe0c7If780nNK9FdinyfldMeCsjY_OZc-NS_SHKEiOa91P2ycpJVXdcYJORGhvYmShvlkcfiNZQPfPPNIBqq8DBHsPzOwaX2tEM/s1600/research_icon.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><b><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbLl994vMuxVJvM9Jg3kD_KYRPPG2mXCReCvvODjJSbe0c7If780nNK9FdinyfldMeCsjY_OZc-NS_SHKEiOa91P2ycpJVXdcYJORGhvYmShvlkcfiNZQPfPPNIBqq8DBHsPzOwaX2tEM/s200/research_icon.png" height="200" width="200" /></b></a><b><span style="font-family: Courier New;">Before we arrived in Myanmar, I did a lot of research online. I used Tripadvisor as my main source and Thorntree as my second. The Lonely Planet also, but his royal highness is totally outdated (although only one year old). The prices quoted in there have to be multiplied by at least 3 or 4 times (Myanmar is rapidly changing). </span><span style="font-family: 'Courier New';">If I couldn't find what I was looking for, I googled until I found what I was looking for. There is so much information online. </span></b><br />
<span style="font-family: 'Courier New';"><b>I also read several novels about Myanmar. </b></span></div>
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<span style="color: orange; font-family: Courier New;">WHAT DOES THE MYANMAR VIBE FEEL LIKE?</span></h4>
<span style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;"><b>Myanmar is a beautiful country, but what does that mean? There are so many beautiful countries in the world. Well, Myanmar is special because it hasn't dealt with tourism on a massive scale yet. That makes it special (but also difficult). But Myanmar offers also many breathtaking temples, pagoda's and (golden) rocks, beaches, small villages, statues, vibrant cities and so on! </b></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;">The landscape differs from region to region: sea, lake, mountains, palm woods and rural areas; Myanmar offers it all. The people are in general very shy and traditional, but overall lovely and kind (although not many speak English and that's why they are very reserved). Men practically all wear longies and like the women use tanaka (white powder) make up on their face, which is very special to see. Sexuality is totally hidden, which I found very refreshing in the beginning and easy going (I live in a neighbourhood with too many Moroccan guys who whistle all the time) but after three weeks I was wondering if the Myanmar people ever have sex :-) </span></b><br />
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<span style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;">At Ngapali beach I wear shorts and shoulder less tops, which I tried to avoid in all the other places in Myanmar. Please make sure to wear at least a shirt that covers your shoulders and please do wear anything that covers your knees </span><span style="font-family: Courier New, Courier, monospace;">at temples and other religious places</span><span style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;">. THIS ADVISE IS ALSO FOR MEN! I've seen many stupid tourists with singlets and tiny short jeans, just covering the butt, walking around the Shwedagon. Really? Yes really! </span></b><br />
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<b><span style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;">The food they serve is tasteful. Not like Thai or Vietnamese food at all. It has it's own special flavor. The Myanmar people mainly eat rice with meat (curry) and vegetables. At Inle lake and the beach, avocado salad is very much in vogue and of course fish. So mjumie! There are no bars, no nightlife, but there are tea houses (only men). </span><span style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;">At 9pm streets are empty.</span></b><br />
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<span style="font-family: Courier New, Courier, monospace;">Alcohol is available, beer very easy (Myanmar beer often comes free...see my blog chapter Ngapali beach), as well as Myanmar rum and whiskey (dirt cheap, 2$ a bottle). Wine is also available, but more difficult and only in the big villages or at the beach. They have their own vineyards and this wine taste pretty okay. See my chapter of Inle Lake.</span></b><br />
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<span style="font-family: Courier New, Courier, monospace;">Pretty much all the Myanmar men have red teeth. They constantly chew beetle nut which makes their teeth horribly ugly, rotten and red. They spit the left over beetle nut and their lumps of spit on the streets, so these are all red. This aspect of Myanmar I didn't like too much. It seems that everybody chews this light speedy drug and it looks very unattractive.</span></b><br />
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<span style="font-family: Courier New, Courier, monospace;"><b>Four weeks is enough time to get to know the country well.</b></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Courier New;"><b>All the hotels we slept in, I 'booked' online. Sometimes I e-mailed a hotel four to six times (!) before I got an answer back. A month before our departure, I reconfirmed all the hotels by e-mail. I mailed them till I got a reconfirmation back. From the whole e-mail correspondence I made a PDF and copied that on my iPad. When we arrived we encountered with three hotels (out of nine) problems: our reservation was NOT known or known but according to them not properly reconfirmed (they make up all kinds of stories). This is the most difficult part of travelling independently in Myanmar.</b></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Courier New;"><b>Here is what you need to do: try to book all your hotels weeks (better months) in advance. Don't take any risks by not booking ahead. We've seen several times travellers walking around in the streets, tears in their eyes, totally stressed because there was NOT ONE SINGLE ROOM AVAILABLE. Certainly the better ones are sold out quickly. Reconfirm at least a week and three days before showing up and do this by telephone through a staff member of the hotel you stay in. I am not kidding you, this is how it works these days in Myanmar. There is a gigantic lack of rooms and most hotel owners don't have any service attitude (anymore) because they fill up anyway. So yes they are rapidly becoming arrogant and unfriendly. This was the biggest change I saw compared to eight years ago. A total shame, but what can I do about it? Once I tried something, I confronted one of the hotel owners with his behavior and lack of service (PYI1 @Inle Lake) and a very unpleasant situation occurred.</b></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Courier New;">Because it's not possible to pay for the hotel online, many travellers make reservations for a few hotels in the same town. They check out the competition and take the room they like the most. The other rooms are left over. That's why hotel owners basically take the whole 'reservation system' for granted/not seriously. So in a way it's our own fault!</span></b></div>
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<span style="color: orange; font-family: Courier New;"><strong>PRICES</strong></span></h4>
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<b><u style="font-family: 'Courier New';">Hotels</u><span style="font-family: 'Courier New';"> are very expensive in Myanmar (for a poor Asian country). Mid range hotels are between 45-100$ a night. Certainly Yangon is horrible. Shit holes for 60$ are very common. Mid range is often still pretty basic, do not level the rooms with European or Thailand standards. When I visited Myanmar eight years ago I paid for the same room 10$ instead of 55$. This shows how crazy things are getting in Myanmar. There is basically little to no service in the hotel, what you see is what you get. If they can take your Kyatt, they will. Service is something that they just have no experience with (the way we expect it when paying 75$ for a room). You can pay for the rooms in Dollars or in Kyatt. Euro's basically NOT!</span></b></div>
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<span style="font-family: Courier New;"><b><u>Flying</u> in Myanmar is between 80-135$ per flight (see exact prices further in this post). Flying is not dirt cheap, but it goes fast and we thought it was very reliable. KBZ is the most expensive one (but has the most air plains and according to my travel agent the most reliable one). According to a few bloggers as of February there is a new company offering budget flights. See post on <a href="http://www.tripadvisor.com/ShowTopic-g294190-i9408-k6156621-New_low_cost_airline_Golden_Myanmar-Myanmar.html" target="_blank">Tripadvisor.</a> </b></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Courier New;"><b><u>Food</u> is very affordable and it seems that the price for meals and drinks didn't change that much over the years. But I think the variety of dishes and what they offer changed very positively. As well as the hygiene of the food preparation (although I still suffer from stomach problems and needed antibiotics). </b></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Courier New;"><b>So except for accommodation, the prices in Myanmar are okay. </b></span></div>
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<span style="color: orange; font-family: Courier New;"><strong>MYANMAR PEOPLE</strong></span></h4>
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<span style="font-family: Courier New;"><b>During my online research, I've read over a hundred times how nice and warm the Myanmar people are. I agree, to a certain level. Often we felt an attraction when we walked down the streets. People taking pictures of us, waving, yelling 'Mingalabar!!!' or just smiled at us. We liked that a lot. We brought from our home country small presents and tried to interact with the locals as much as possible. But language is a problem. We really tried hard to learn a few Burmese sentences but gave up after 2 weeks. </b></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Courier New;"><b>Many Burmese don't speak any English, French or Spanish so conversations are difficult, which I found in the end a bit frustrating. Always the same question and the same answers. The people who speak a tiny little bit English is the hotel / restaurant staff and I didn't particular fell in love with their kindness or hospitality. Walking an extra mile for a guest: no way, this is just not in their system. They obey to the strict regulations and rules of the owner. Everything goes precisely as they are told to do. Nothing happens without any good reason. I often felt that the staff was cheap labour just for handing over the key and collecting the dollars. I was very intrigued by all this but couldn't find any answers to all the questions I had.</b></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Courier New;">I really missed talking chit chat style with the staff. I am curious how they live, what their interests are etc. This was most of the time not possible. The only big exception was at Ngapali Beach at the Bayview resort, but that is a German owned international hotel (and unfortunately so not Myanmar). The staff here is very well trained and more open to conversation then any other hotel staff I met. They also truly seem to enjoy hanging out with us, talking, making jokes etc. </span></b></div>
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<span style="font-family: Courier New;"><b>Every place we visited was totally different. The southern part is more rural, undeveloped and the people were far less friendly and hygienic, with <a href="http://www.tripadvisor.com/ShowTopic-g294190-i9408-k6166577-A_very_bad_experience_at_Golden_Sunrise_hotel_Golden_Rock-Myanmar.html" target="_blank">Kinpun</a> (base camp for Golden Rock) as the most unfriendly and dirty town we visited. </b></span><br />
<b><span style="font-family: Courier New;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Courier New;"><a href="http://www.tripadvisor.com/ShowUserReviews-g469408-d2222579-r152870931-Cinderella_Hotel-Mawlamyine_Mon_State.html#CHECK_RATES_CONT" target="_blank">Moulmein</a> is a funny special little town. A great place to unwind with a lot of nature and beautiful monasteries and pagoda's. It's only reachable by train (nightmare) and bus. Easy transportation in and around town with your own scooter for example.</span></b><br />
<b><span style="font-family: Courier New;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Courier New, Courier, monospace;">We liked the spirit in <a href="http://www.tripadvisor.com/ShowUserReviews-g317112-d459946-r152869835-Thante_Hotel_Nyaung_Oo-Bagan_Mandalay_Region.html#CHECK_RATES_CONT" target="_blank">Bagan </a>(<span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: 'Courier New';">Nyaung Shwe area). It was so relaxed driving around and exploring the town on our bikes. We also liked the way they made their restaurants cosy with lampoons and candles. <a href="http://www.tripadvisor.com/ShowUserReviews-g303662-d3683551-r152116024-Aung_Mingalar_Hotel-Nyaungshwe_Shan_State.html#REVIEWS" target="_blank">Inle Lake</a> was also chill. Basically what we found out: </span>everywhere bikes can be hired, there is a nice vibe in town.</span></b><br />
<b><span style="font-family: Courier New;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Courier New;">Although <a href="http://www.tripadvisor.com/Hotel_Review-g295408-d671780-Reviews-Mandalay_City_Hotel-Mandalay_Mandalay_Region.html" target="_blank">Mandalay</a> sounds exotic and laid-back, it was by far the dirtiest and most polluted city. Because of our great guide Lamyou (highly recommended) we had a fantastic time, but be well prepared if you go there and spent some extra $ on good accommodation, you will definitely like a little extra here.</span></b><br />
<b><span style="font-family: Courier New;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Courier New;"><a href="http://www.tripadvisor.com/Hotel_Review-g612368-d637394-Reviews-Bayview_the_beach_resort-Ngapali_Rakhine_State.html" target="_blank">Ngapali beach</a> is beautiful, but nothing like the Thai beach life. You want to drink and party: avoid this place. You will only see older people, big posh resorts and no action, -except for laying cards- what so ever. A few travellers told me that the place looks like Ko Samui 30 years ago (with Swiss prices anno 2013). It's quiet, there are many great restaurants, a beautiful white beach and a clear blue sea. </span></b><br />
<span style="font-family: Courier New;"><b>I you are in for reading a book, eating grilled fishes and drink an occasional cocktail at one of the resorts, this might be just the perfect place for you. </b></span><br />
<b><span style="font-family: Courier New;"><br /></span>
</b><br />
<h4>
<b style="color: orange; font-family: 'Courier New';">BUDGET</b></h4>
<span style="font-family: 'Courier New';"><b>We were not really on a budget. We took plenty of pristine dollars with us to avoid running into cash problems (we saw many people with cash flow problems). Pristine unused notes are still the only way to get Kyatts. So pre-book them in your country. </b></span><br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8mrN-kepb6raFtWd7Nbyy91qjcvtTraYuuGSgoGPTjI_eaqBgtPs3h17a0qVd9x62fJvq7bd2WF_wgJVytGxLVr7PwrVD1-UuF1bKV_AooADcsMy1W3jmXy2wiOjkr1WCykIaDniqXoA/s1600/budget.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><b><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8mrN-kepb6raFtWd7Nbyy91qjcvtTraYuuGSgoGPTjI_eaqBgtPs3h17a0qVd9x62fJvq7bd2WF_wgJVytGxLVr7PwrVD1-UuF1bKV_AooADcsMy1W3jmXy2wiOjkr1WCykIaDniqXoA/s200/budget.jpg" height="200" width="200" /></b></a><span style="font-family: 'Courier New';"><b>If we would have known that euros were also exchangeable in Myanmar -really!-, we would have brought those and only a few dollars in small notes. Would have saved us about 100€ commission fee (! ridiculous) back in Holland. </b></span><br />
<b><span style="font-family: Courier New, Courier, monospace;"><br /></span>
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<span lang="NL"><span style="font-family: Courier New, Courier, monospace;"><b>It is really bizarre that they still want
pristine notes, but it's like it is... <o:p></o:p></b></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="NL"><b><span style="font-family: Courier New, Courier, monospace;">Our € notes don't interest them at all, so you
can bring filthy, used notes to the country without any problems. The reason is
very easy: Just compare the bills. With a good photocopy printer you can
reproduce the just two-coloured Dollar bills easily, and if you then just
"age" them a bit with dust and folds, it is difficult to see that
these are forged. Now try this with a Euro bill with all the extremely refined
security marks, holograms, metal band, watermarks etc. Hard job to forge those
and you can see that even if they are used.</span><o:p></o:p></b></span></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Courier New;">You basically cannot use your credit card </span><span style="font-family: Courier New, Courier, monospace;">in Myanmar. Not in hotels (only a few in Yangon). There are now several ATM's in Inle Lake, Yangon and Mandalay (as I remember correctly) where you can withdraw cash from (expensive). Visa seems to be more in favour/practical then MasterCard. </span></b><br />
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<span style="font-family: Courier New, Courier, monospace;"><b>At the airport they offer a good exchange rate (same as all the banks in Myanmar). It was hilarious to see all these tourist at the airport exchange booth changing only 25$ because they read in <i>the bible </i>that the airport rates are the worst in Myanmar. This made me really think...the majority of the travellers obvious haven't done any real (last minute) research...They just bought a Lonely Planet and thought: off we go?</b></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: 'Courier New';">On average the two us together spent daily 55$ without accommodation but with souvenirs/clothes/medicines. </span></b><br />
<span style="font-family: 'Courier New';"><b>For guesthouses and hotels we paid another 35-65$ per night. See all the details in my blog.</b></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: 'Courier New';">NOT in our daily budget:</span></b><br />
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<li><span style="font-family: 'Courier New';"><b>We splurged at Ngapali Beach with a 113€ per night room (it was worth every euro cent but we felt terribly spoilt). But food here is dirt cheap. So our daily budget at Ngapali beach was 25$ a day.</b></span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: 'Courier New';"><b>We paid once for a private taxi ride Yangon-Golden Rock: 90$</b></span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: 'Courier New';"><b>We paid average 90$ per domestic flight (we took 5 flights)</b></span></li>
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<b><span style="color: orange; font-family: Courier New, Courier, monospace;">TRANSPORTATION</span></b></h4>
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<b><span style="font-family: Courier New, Courier, monospace;">Short: avoid buses and trains, take plains. </span><span style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;">Why? Read my blog. </span></b><br />
<span style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;"><b>No seriously, we are not that good with buses. The ones we've been on were so full with people and leg space was so little, that we didn't enjoy it (understatement). </b></span></div>
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</b><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFNARMfHS4Q9RXETH9skyZ2MWm1pHeiqiL5G1GSTZBJf4m8FvT1atwu1c7Oi4YWpxclYFDrfB063WIZy3eSGGVUaM3yDky1JTwKKIOSkoTc7Km5HrUAjPGGBhaB70C_5aiLWXPadj48ok/s1600/transport.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em; text-align: center;"><b><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFNARMfHS4Q9RXETH9skyZ2MWm1pHeiqiL5G1GSTZBJf4m8FvT1atwu1c7Oi4YWpxclYFDrfB063WIZy3eSGGVUaM3yDky1JTwKKIOSkoTc7Km5HrUAjPGGBhaB70C_5aiLWXPadj48ok/s200/transport.jpg" height="200" width="200" /></b></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFNARMfHS4Q9RXETH9skyZ2MWm1pHeiqiL5G1GSTZBJf4m8FvT1atwu1c7Oi4YWpxclYFDrfB063WIZy3eSGGVUaM3yDky1JTwKKIOSkoTc7Km5HrUAjPGGBhaB70C_5aiLWXPadj48ok/s1600/transport.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><b><br /></b></a><span style="font-family: Courier New, Courier, monospace;"><b>This is what I've heard several times: </b></span><br />
<b><span style="font-family: Courier New, Courier, monospace;">The night buss stops every 3 hours. Lights go on and everybody will be swept out. They </span><span style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;">also play music throughout the whole night. </span><span style="font-family: Courier New, Courier, monospace;">So that's kind of tricky for for a good night sleep. I've heard there are now several itineraries with great buses were you can totally lay down/stretch. This information must be available online.</span></b><br />
<b><span style="font-family: Courier New, Courier, monospace;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Courier New, Courier, monospace;">The train: do it and you will never do it again, I am almost certain of that. It's bumpy, goes slow, it's dirty, very noisy, busy and not really cheap. </span></b><br />
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<span style="font-family: Courier New, Courier, monospace;">A glimpse:</span></b><br />
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<iframe allowfullscreen='allowfullscreen' webkitallowfullscreen='webkitallowfullscreen' mozallowfullscreen='mozallowfullscreen' width='320' height='266' src='https://www.youtube.com/embed/6rz4Y0scdko?feature=player_embedded' frameborder='0'></iframe></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Courier New';"><u>Flights in Myanmar:</u></span></b></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Courier New';"><b>We decided to use a travel agent to book flight tickets with. This is not possible online, you need someone in Myanmar. I e-mailed quit a bit back and forth to my contact in Yangon because it's not easy getting things done (quickly) in Myanmar. I've repeated my question sometimes several times and occasionally I had my doubts if they really understood what I meant. So be patient and always, stay polite! There are loads of recommendations for travel agents to be found online. Mine is clearly described in my blog.</b></span><br />
<b><span style="font-family: 'Courier New';"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: 'Courier New';">This is what we paid at <a href="mailto:may@peacehousetravel.com" target="_blank">Peace House Travel</a>:</span></b><br />
<span style="font-family: 'Courier New';"><b>(click <a href="mailto:may@peacehousetravel.com" target="_blank">here</a> to e-mail May from Peace House Travel directly)</b></span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEBtB6zjNDbde48WzXN6IIFDEHLmQoU5-jpeyw_fClFgvcdfbKw3fPIOql7tfEdm0XUvZs5BY_6mtQU6OqnUzkpOsqfzrEacgo8IHe2AHthrOplTw49d6PIJLjL1NzQhIXPC26Dckn_js/s1600/Schermafbeelding+2013-02-20+om+09.21.35.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><b><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEBtB6zjNDbde48WzXN6IIFDEHLmQoU5-jpeyw_fClFgvcdfbKw3fPIOql7tfEdm0XUvZs5BY_6mtQU6OqnUzkpOsqfzrEacgo8IHe2AHthrOplTw49d6PIJLjL1NzQhIXPC26Dckn_js/s400/Schermafbeelding+2013-02-20+om+09.21.35.png" height="112" width="400" /></b></a><br />
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<b style="font-family: 'Courier New';">(NOTE: </b><b style="font-family: 'Courier New';">Mandalay -> Bagan </b><b style="font-family: 'Courier New';">is by </b><b style="font-family: 'Courier New';">-11 hour- BOAT!!!!)</b></h4>
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<b style="color: orange; font-family: 'Courier New';">SHOULD I GO NOW?</b></h4>
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<span style="font-family: Courier New, Courier, monospace;"><b>I honestly don't know. What happens right now in Myanmar is totally incomparable with any other country. I talked to several people who worked for years in the tourist industry and they all start trembling at the thought what will happen if this situation goes on. Me too. I have serious doubts if the Myanmar government is doing the right thing at this moment. I hope they will hire the right advisers from abroad to guide them through this difficult process. If things will go on like they are now and did in the past 8 or 9 months, then Myanmar will soon become a no go area. If I had anything to say, I would close the borders now (or at least decrease the total amount of tourist visa by half) for a while, and start reflecting on what happened and how to go on in a fair and much better structured way. </b></span><br />
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<u style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;"><b>Anyway:</b></u><br />
<b><span style="font-family: Courier New, Courier, monospace;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Courier New, Courier, monospace;">If you don't mind paying ridiculous amounts of money for simple accommodation, yes go! </span></b><br />
<b><span style="font-family: Courier New, Courier, monospace;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Courier New, Courier, monospace;">If you can handle the stress of being refused because the hotel/guesthouse is full (although you have written proof of your reservation): yes go! </span></b><br />
<b><span style="font-family: Courier New, Courier, monospace;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Courier New, Courier, monospace;">If you don't mind to get some stomach issues: yes go (you will get them how careful you are..)</span></b><br />
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<span style="font-family: Courier New, Courier, monospace;">If you insist on being the first to discover (authentic) Myanmar: NO, don't go. You are certainly not one of the first, and the country has already changed totally. The 'real authenticity' is already gone. Wait a few years till the country is used to tourism. </span></b><br />
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<span style="font-family: Courier New, Courier, monospace;">If you are afraid of travelling on your own and you want to go by a group tour: NO, don't go. </span></b><br />
<span style="font-family: Courier New, Courier, monospace;"><b>At this point in time Myanmar is better off without tourist groups (I know there are some real cool travel agents like Shoestring that organises local orientated group tours...these are probably very okay, but still I don't think the country benefits from these kind of tourists & tourism). </b></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;"><b>ALSO INTERESTING FOOD FOR THOUGHT:</b></span></h3>
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<span style="color: orange; font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;">Spanish</span></h3>
<span style="font-family: Courier New, Courier, monospace;"><b>A fun blog to read for Spanish travelers:</b></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Courier New, Courier, monospace;"><a href="http://www.bakpakin.blogspot.com/"><b>http://www.bakpakin.blogspot.com</b></a></span><br />
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<span style="color: orange; font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;">Myanmar touroperators</span></h3>
<span style="font-family: Courier New, Courier, monospace;"><b>A handy touristy website from Zaw Win Tun, a web developer from Myanmar:</b></span><br />
<a href="http://www.goldenplacemyanmar.com/" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;"><b>http://www.goldenplacemyanmar.com</b></a><br />
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<span style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;"><b>Another one:</b></span><br />
<a href="http://www.dragoman.com/press/press-releases/872-burma-overland-"><span style="font-family: Courier New, Courier, monospace;"><b>http://www.dragoman.com/press/press-releases/872-burma-overland-</b></span></a><br />
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Whatelleshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02243872263855557277noreply@blogger.com25tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4157482893926026680.post-13318448817519119272013-02-04T20:18:00.001-08:002014-11-09T01:40:32.089-08:00Moulmein (Mawlamyne)<div>
<span style="color: #ff9a00;"><span style="font-family: Courier New, Courier, monospace; font-size: x-large;"><b>Day 25: Back in business</b></span></span></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Courier New, Courier, monospace;">It was a 3,5 hour drive in a wobbly bus that was packed with mostly locals. They have this wicked middle row system, to make sure 5 people fit in one row. I could hardly move my legs. I am not the bus type at all. Half ways we had a stop in a shocking dirty place were a few vendor ladies tried to sell us their stuff. Like in Kinpun, the people here at Thanton are not friendly and of a totally different kind then all the other people we've seen during our travelling through Myanmar. Everything was covered with mud and the garbage was laying everywhere. For us, it is totally shocking to see that everybody just throws their litter in the streets and obviously don't care at all.</span></b><br />
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<b><span style="font-family: Courier New, Courier, monospace;"><span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: Courier New;">
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<span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: Courier New, Courier, monospace;"><b>We were so glad the bus stopped and dropped us off at the bus station of Moulmein. Nightmare ride was over. We took a tuktuk that brought us the the Sandelwood (1.000K each). We called them this morning to make a reservation because our reserved hotel for the next two days, the Cinderella, is full today. The Sandelwood is okay, not really charming, but spotless and the room is very well equipped, a drying rack..wow! I love that, the first I've seen in Myanmar.</b></span><br />
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<b><span style="font-family: Courier New, Courier, monospace;">We took a long hot shower to wash off all the dirt and negative vibes we collected in Kinpun and in the bus. Because the wifi works really good here, I took a look on Tripadvisor for food suggestions. Not many. When we went downstairs to go out, we met a Dutch guy Gerrit who gave us many tips for exploring town and her surroundings. He rented a scooter, which he thought was totally safe here, and showed us the place where we immediately booked one for the next two days.</span></b><br />
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<b><span style="font-family: Courier New, Courier, monospace;">We had a lovely dinner at Ykko a very modern and clean place next to the river. They have an extensive menu, also one for coffee. So this is the place where I hang out for some decent cappuccino tomorrow,..yeahhhh!</span></b></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Courier New, Courier, monospace;">The food was delicious. We both liked it a lot. It's not Myanmar style (I am a bit done with Myanmar food), more Japanese. Truly a highly recommended restaurant and very affordable, slightly more expensive then the other places we've been to (between 2.000-4.500K per dish).</span></b><br />
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<b><span style="font-family: Courier New, Courier, monospace;">We went to bed early. Both exhausted from the hell journey and the awful place called Kinpun. If I had known all this....well what we say in Holland: Looking back, you look a cow in it's ass hole. What a ridiculous phrase,... now I think of it, hahahaa.</span></b></div>
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<span style="color: #ff9a00;"><span style="font-size: x-large;">Day 26: You are so nice Moumein! </span></span></span></b><br />
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<b><span style="font-family: Courier New, Courier, monospace;">We had a quick breakfast (don't bother....the usual tasteless bread, eggs and fake orange juice). Why do they feed us this? We pay 40$ a night, I guess a proper breakfast with a little more choice must be possible for this amount of money? I can't stand eggs anymore.</span></b></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Courier New, Courier, monospace;">We checked out and went to the Cinderella. It was still raining, what a bummer! </span></b><br />
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<b><span style="font-family: Courier New, Courier, monospace;">Our room wasn't ready yet so we killed some time in the lobby using their wifi, which is super fast at the Cinderella. </span></b><br />
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<b><span style="font-family: Courier New, Courier, monospace;">When they showed us our room, 45 minutes later, we were indeed very pleasantly surprised. It comes with a laptop, an iron, 2 bath robes, a fridge full of drinks (and Heineken beer), wet cold refreshing towels (all cheaper then outside), complimentary fresh fruit (every day) as well as fruit juice. Really amazing, what a service. The beds are also very comfortable and for the first time in Myanmar we had a real duvet instead of a sheet and a blanket. What a treat! No more nightly hassles. </span></b></div>
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<span style="color: #ff9a00;"><u>TO ALL HOTEL OWNERS IN MYANMAR:</u></span></span></b></div>
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<span style="color: #ff9a00; font-family: Courier New, Courier, monospace;"><b>I like to say to all the Myanmar hotel owners, take the Cinderella hotel as an example how well quality/service versus price level can be achieved. Why is the Cinderella able to provide a fantastic service for such a decent price (35$ for a room, the cheapest rate we had in Myanmar) and all you (greedy) hotel owners are not able to provide at least half of this service and comfort but you charge so much more. This kind of misplaced greediness works now, because there are not enough hotels, but eventually will turn against you (at least that is what I hope). </b></span><br />
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<b><span style="font-family: Courier New, Courier, monospace;">We quickly unpacked and jumped on our scooter. </span></b><br />
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<b><span style="font-family: Courier New, Courier, monospace;">First stop, the train station for our train tickets back to Yangon. The place looks totally deserted (trains are the worst way of transportation in Myanmar, but we thought to give it a try anyway).</span></b><br />
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<b><span style="font-family: Courier New, Courier, monospace;">After this old skool train ticket adventure, we hit the road for the second destination of the day: the declining buddha. Half ways we saw a Thai restaurant were we had a (same same but different) Myanmar style pad thai with a real Singha. When we arrived at Yadana Taung we were pretty shocked...this buddha, wow this is buddha is really biggggggggg! If you thought you'd seen some big old buddhas, just wait till you get a load of this one (quote from <em>the bible</em>). Draped across a couple of green hillsides at Yadana Taung, and surrounded by a forest of other pagoda's and shrines, it's recently constructed 560ft-long reclining buddha is easily one of the largest in the world. Many other stupas and standing buddhas dot the area , including 500 (!!) statues lining the road to the Win Sein Taw Ya.</span></b><br />
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<b><span style="font-family: Courier New, Courier, monospace;">The whole place looks a bit, well how shall I put it, like Monks Disneyland? We walked all the way inside this big guy, while Klaas noticed that the construction is poorly done and that soon the whole thing probably will collapse because of rotten concrete. We thought it was a strange 'building'. Inside there were many sculptures of people representing daily life back in the days? It looked rather like a deserted prison. Not really something to spent a lot of time. We took the scooter again and went all the way up the opposite mountain for some good snapshots of this large (almost to collapse) buddha.</span></b><br />
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<b><span style="font-family: Courier New, Courier, monospace;">Back in town we explored lovely Moulmein. The town has several monasteries with beautiful pagoda's. The first one was lovely (it inspired the English writer George Orwell who lived in Moulmein for a while). It was covered with mirrors, rubies and diamonds named 'Mahamuni Paya'. </span></b></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Courier New, Courier, monospace;">The second one we visited, 'the Kyaikthanlan Paya', was taking our breath away. We didn't expect this place to be so cool. </span></b><br />
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<b><span style="font-family: Courier New, Courier, monospace;">The view from this pagoda was breathtaking. The pagoda itself is so well maintained, we were very impressed. </span></b></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Courier New, Courier, monospace;">We went back to the Cinderella and took the bottle of wine, we bought at the beach, and headed for the viewpoint, the place for sunset. I read in some reports that this sunset is the best of Myanmar and I agree!</span></b><br />
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<b><span style="font-family: Courier New, Courier, monospace;">Of all the sunsets I saw, this is definitely the most authentic one. And there we sat, on a concrete bench, with a chilled bottle of white wine enjoying the view. It was a fun place to hang around because the local youth eats their food here (there is a vendor who was so smart to start a small BBQ stall). We are still some kind of attraction. Everybody stares at us (secretly) and giggles nervously when we try to start a conversation.</span></b><br />
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<b><span style="font-family: Courier New, Courier, monospace;">When the sun disappeared we were already quit tipsy. </span></b><br />
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<b><span style="font-family: Courier New, Courier, monospace;">The BBQ stall made us hungry so we decided to go to the beer garden 2, a BBQ place, according to <em>the bible </em>the place with truly talented grillers and indeed: truly talented! BUT, the place looks dreadful. A big concrete garden with plastic chairs and along the sides big see through refrigerators stuffed with all kinds of vegetables, meat and fish. You just point out what you want them to grill. </span></b><br />
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<b><span style="font-family: Courier New, Courier, monospace;">We took some squid, chicken, cornflower, small eggs, which all comes wit a separate delicious spicy sauce. Klaas is a BBQ lover so he had the time of his life. I am more sensitive for the way things look, so I wasn't really impressed, though the grilled items were very tasteful. It wasn't dirt cheap though. We paid 16.000K which I think was a bit too expensive for what we had.</span></b></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Courier New, Courier, monospace;">Social life in Myanmar stops around 8/9pm, so we went to bed early and read for some time in our e-books. Still so happy with the 400 books I brought with me :-)</span></b></div>
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<span style="color: #ff9a00;"><span style="font-size: x-large;">Day 27: OOOH NO! NOT AGAIN...!</span></span></span></b><br />
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<b><span style="font-family: Courier New, Courier, monospace;">And there we are, climbing a huge mo.. fuc.. mountain: 4 hours up, 2 hours down, counted in Dutch tempo. Outside temperature: at least 40 degrees. After we had breakfast, slightly better then what Sandelwood offers (extra: papaya and chicken soup) we jumped on the scooter and headed for the other direction, 'The Nwa la bo Pagoda'. In the jungle-cloaked hill to the north of Moulmein the Tolkienesque side of the country comes to life in an extraordinary fashion at the Nwa la bo Pagoda, a local pilgrimage side. Very few foreigners make it out here, which is surprising because the pagoda is a smaller but, geologically at least, far more astonishing version of the Golden Rock in Kinpun (quote from <em>the bible</em>). Since we missed the real Golden Rock for all the wrong reasons, I was convinced never to visit any other Golden Rock in the whole wide world, but while we are here and still feel a bit tricked, we decided to hike all the way up to the second best Golden Rock Myanmar has to offer. </span></b><br />
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<b><span style="font-family: Courier New, Courier, monospace;">We scootered 12 miles north (lovely to drive across the bridge out of town) and parked our scooter around 10am near the entrance of the path that leads to the golden boulder. The first truck to the summit of the mountain didn't leave before 11am so we decided to start walking. One of the vendors told us: 'Two hour up and two hours down'. Okay we thought, we can do this with two fingers in our nose. Water: check. Biscuits: check. Sneakers: check. Camera: check. Suncream: check. </span></b><br />
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<b><span style="font-family: Courier New, Courier, monospace;">Off we go. After 45 minutes we were already totally out of breath (read: death). The path was so so steep, hallelujah. We stopped for a while to take some pics of women carrying big bundles of grass on their heads. While we gave them some Dutch souvenirs (they all love the lanyards from my former employer) a 4-wheel drive passed us. They stopped asking us if we wanted a lift. Oooh yes...we want a lift! So the both of us were squeezed in the back of the vehicle with some peasants, their tools and a tourist. We drove at least 20 minutes (fast tempo) to the summit. </span></b><br />
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<b><span style="font-family: Courier New, Courier, monospace;">Want to join our ride?</span></b><br />
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<b><span style="font-family: Courier New, Courier, monospace;">Can you imagine how long this would have taken us by foot?? Yes we can too..this would have taken us ages!! My god, this vendor lady almost killed us with her 'only two hours to the summit' story. Our bum was totally fractured after the bumpy ride, but we made it. The other tourist, a French lady wasn't feeling well. She suffered from food poisoning and run straight to the bushes to take a .. When she returned she was white as a sheet! When we asked her if she was okay, she rushed to the bushes again where she couldn't stop vomiting. Poor poor woman!</span></b></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Courier New, Courier, monospace;">We left her (her own wish) and climbed a few stairs that lead to the Golden boulder. And this is what we saw:</span></b><br />
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<b><span style="font-family: Courier New, Courier, monospace;">Another Golden Rock under renovation.</span></b></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">NO NO... NOT AGAIN!</span></span></b><br />
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<b><span style="font-family: Courier New, Courier, monospace;">I just couldn't stop laughing. This is Myanmar playing with us! But why? We behaved ourselves, we were good travellers? Weren't we?</span></b></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Courier New, Courier, monospace;">Anyway, we pulled ourselves together and started the hike back. We calculated a 2 hour walk. And it was. </span></b><br />
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<b><span style="font-family: Courier New, Courier, monospace;">I was worn out. Death. Not able to speak anymore! My legs were shaking and I already suffer from major muscular pains. But I did it. (Klaas had no problems what so ever, grrrrr). We had a coca cola, which gave me some of my strength back so I could sit on the scooter again. We went back to Moulmein and had a quick lunch at the Mothers & Fathers help restaurant. Nice view but incredibly dirty and smelly place. The rest of the afternoon we stayed in our air conditioned room just doing nothing. </span></b></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Courier New, Courier, monospace;">For diner we went back to Ykko and ordered many small dishes. Again delicious food and the view from our seats was also really good.</span></b></div>
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<span style="color: #ff9a00;"><span style="font-family: Courier New, Courier, monospace; font-size: x-large;"><b>Day 28: The train....never ever ever again!</b></span></span></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Courier New, Courier, monospace;">So here we are, for the last bit of my travel journal. I am sitting in a fantastic place in Bangkok, called 'The Legacy Suites' writing an end to my Myanmar confessions, and specially about our last day in Myanmar. And that day was...well how shall I describe it, kind of special. I wish now, that this day wasn't going to be our last travel experience in Myanmar, but it was, so I tell you all about it. Before you start reading, I really can't think of anything good of this particular day, so be prepared: this is going to be a dreadful story about a train journey. Great book title by the way :-)</span></b></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Courier New, Courier, monospace;">The morning of our departure by train to Yangon, a tuktuk brought us to the train station. So far so good. When we arrived at the station a guy hand pointed at us to follow him. While I was walking a saw two Dutch blokes (you can see it from miles distance). I knew one of the guys so I told him: 'Hey I know you, but I can't remember from when or where!'. The other one said: 'Maybe from AT5 Television?' 'That might be true', I replied, 'I work also often for television companies'. Six hours later I figured out he was one of the anchor man of that broadcast company... that's why he looked so familiar. Stupid me!</span></b></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Courier New, Courier, monospace;">Anyway, we arrived at our carriage and I just could not believe my eyes....is this an upper class carriage? Seriously? Yes seriously.</span></b></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Courier New, Courier, monospace;">I just could not believe that we were about to sit in this dump for at least 8 hours (this is what they told us at the train station, but you know Myanmar people by now...). The chairs were all loose and wobbly, not to mention the (lack of) hygiene of the cushions. Disgusting. How many people vomited on my chair or worse, did other things I just don't want to know....I wasn't feeling very well that morning and entering this train didn't make it any better. </span></b></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Courier New, Courier, monospace;">We shared the compartment with 14 other white (French) travellers, the rest was all Indian or from Myanmar.</span></b></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Courier New, Courier, monospace;">When the train departed it went verrrrrryyyyyy sloooooowwwwwwwww and it made a hell of a lot of noise....hoooooooooonkkkkkkk hoooooooonkkkkkkkkkkk. We thought that this was because of start up problems but I can tell you now, the speed of a Myanmar train will not go higher then 20 km an hour. Seriously? Yes seriously! </span></b></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Courier New, Courier, monospace;">So after 1 hour we found out that:</span></b></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Courier New, Courier, monospace;">*The train driver basically honks all the time (and this is a really horrific loud sound which sets your teeth on edge); </span></b></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Courier New, Courier, monospace;">*that the train doesn't go fast;</span></b></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Courier New, Courier, monospace;">*stops every minute or so;</span></b></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Courier New, Courier, monospace;">*millions of vendors walk up and down the carriage to sell their stuff CONSTANTLY! (And other strange species...)</span></b></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Courier New, Courier, monospace;">Like this holy ghost:</span></b></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Courier New, Courier, monospace;">All these kind of annoying things were still pretty 'do-able' but what wasn't, was this guy, our neighbour:</span></b></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Courier New, Courier, monospace;">He was constantly (!) rasping & spitting, making a hash sound so loud and filthy, all the non-Myanmar people in our carriage were disgusted by him. When he was done, the lump of spit went out of the window. I think there are at least a thousand lumps of spit along the Moulmein-Yangon route. I wanted to say something about his viscous manners, but Klaas made me promise to shut the f...up. The French people already made annoyed face gestures to him, but this guy just didn't give a shit. He's what I believe the embodiment of a true governmental ass hole. I think they all look like him, the people who oppressed the inhabitants of Burma for such a long time, just because they were in power and thought they deserved it to be greedy and selfish at the expensive of the majority of the Burmese population. I might be painfully wrong, (my apologies) but I doubt it. </span></b></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Courier New, Courier, monospace;">Klaas and I weren't feeling 100% fit (understatement). I suffered from diarrhoea along with many cramps and I felt sick the whole time. Klaas felt awkward too. We couldn't eat and when we saw the toilet, we decided to stop drinking as well.</span></b></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Courier New, Courier, monospace;">There is one positive thing to tell, and that are the views from the train. You see so many kids waving at the train. Very cute, but their living circumstances are far from good. We've seen so much poorness, brrrrrrr. So I threw all the amenities I collected from the hotels we stayed in, like brushes, shaving kits, toothpaste, shampoo etc., out of the window. No idea if this is a wise thing to do?</span></b></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Courier New, Courier, monospace;">But we also saw incredible amounts of litter, everywhere you look you see garbage and litter!</span></b></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Courier New, Courier, monospace;">Anyway, the 8 hours became 9 hours, 10 hours, 11 hours and exactly 12 hours after we left Moulmein we entered Yangon. I have never been so ready to jump out of a train. This was the most ultimate disaster ride in my whole life. </span></b></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Courier New, Courier, monospace;">We pre-booked our previous hotel in Yangon 4 weeks ago and did a down payment. From the station to the hotel was only a 15 minutes walk. They didn't raise the price of our room (!) so everything was the same as how we left it: still no working wifi (despite the 150 wifi stickers covering all the walls), no attentive staff, a camphor smelling room, but a comfy bed an air con and a hot shot shower. What more do I need?</span></b></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Courier New, Courier, monospace;">I felt really sick and low on energy. The idea to eat something did not appeal to me at all but we figured out that we had to eat something after this hell journey. Around the corner of our hotel we found a lunch room were we ordered some take away sandwiches. Good choice, I managed to eat one and went to bed at 9pm.</span></b></div>
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<span style="color: #ff9a00;"><span style="font-family: Courier New, Courier, monospace; font-size: x-large;"><b>Day 29: Bye bye Myanmar!</b></span></span></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Courier New, Courier, monospace;">When I woke up I was a new person. Me happy, back in the land of the living! We packed our bags and decided to have breakfast at the airport of Yangon. We had an appointment with May (Peacehouse Travel) at 10am and waited for her in the lobby. She came with a colleague, both very funky dressed!</span></b></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Courier New, Courier, monospace;">May explained to us how bad she felt how things with the aircraft companies are going at this point in time in Myanmar. She thought choosing KBZ was the best option for us since they have the most air planes and so are the most reliable company. A wise thought, but unfortunately that didn't work out for our flight from Thandwe to Yangon. May understands that she can't sell this to her customers, so she called the boss of KBZ. Again, wise thought. He agreed upon a 15$ administration fee instead of 30% of the full ticket price. We were very thankful to May that she managed this. I was also happy that we saw her before we left. She is such a sweet lady and I highly recommend her travel agency <a href="http://www.peacehousetravel.com/" target="_self" title="">Peacehouse Travel</a>.</span></b></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Courier New, Courier, monospace;">And that was it. We kissed May goodbye and took a taxi to the airport. The four weeks travelling in Myanmar are over. But a week Bangkok was waiting.</span></b></div>
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Whatelleshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02243872263855557277noreply@blogger.com53tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4157482893926026680.post-75736072554012180272013-01-30T06:56:00.001-08:002014-11-09T01:40:44.474-08:00Kinpun-Golden Rock<div>
<b><span style="color: #ff9a00; font-family: 'Courier New';"><span style="font-size: x-large;">Day 23: Fu.. fu.. fuck!</span></span><span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); color: #ff9a00; font-family: 'Courier New';"><span style="font-size: x-small;"> </span><span style="font-size: large;">(so I said it, sorry for the language)</span></span><span style="font-family: Courier New;"><br />
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After we sad goodbye to Germany and Italy (who were not really on speaking terms), our hotel brought us to the airport. One of the staff members joined us (she picks up new guests at the airport). Klaas asked her to give our hotel ' The Golden Sunrise' at Kinpun (base camp for the golden rock) a ring with our ETA. She spoke to the manager who knew we were coming. After all the hassle we went through with the (non existing) reservations, I do not want to take any more risks. Flying in Myanmar is so relaxed. You arrive, drop of your luggage, they give you a sticker of the aircraft company and practically half an hour you are in the air. 45 minutes and two cheese sandwiches and a coffee later you arrive at your destination. It's like taking a bus. Love it!</b></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Courier New;"><b>We agreed that I collect our luggage and that Klaas went outside to start negotiating our taxi to Kinpun. When I arrived outside with our luggage on a stroller, Klaas already waved at me. After some heavy discussions and some fights between taxi drivers he got a good price 80.000K (80 euro for a 3,5 hours drive) to Kinpun. Easy said, easy done. At 3.30pm we arrived at the Golden Sunrise I booked months ago. This place is highly recommended at Tripadvisor (and <em>the bible</em>). It was also because of this really nice hotel we decided to go to the Golden Rock. I reconfirmed my booking 6 weeks ago and 3 days before we came here. And we called them the morning we arrived.</b></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Courier New;"><b>When I stepped out of the car, a guy (later he told me he was the manager) said to me: <em>go back in the car, hotel is full, we go to other hotel</em>. I couldn't believe my ears. The both of us yelled together: FULL? We have a reservation and two confirmations. He said: <em>I know, but full, we go to other hotel</em>. We said: No we stay here, we have a reservation. So he went to the back of his reception, came back with a key and took us to the end of his property (a construction place) and showed us a simple ugly bungalow with a fantastic view on the construction place We didn't accept. I tried to reason with him. The only thing he kept repeating: '<em>many tourist book, make reservation, but no come. You understand?'</em><br />
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<b><span style="font-family: Courier New;">I said that I totally understand this, but when I asked him why he reconfirmed my room via e-mail and this morning on the telephone, he kept repeating the same (fu..) line: '</span><span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: 'Courier New';"><em>many tourist book, make reservation, but not come. You understand. Also Yangon office make mistake'. </em><span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: 'Courier New';">Apparently everybody blames the (non excising) office in Yangon. I lost it. I am not proud of this behaviour, but I just lost it. </span></span></b></div>
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<span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: 'Courier New';"><span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: 'Courier New';"><b>I started stamping my feet, with my head almost exploding. We just F &%#% paid 80€ for a ride to this place.... I just have NO respect for this kind of behaviour. When we kept on arguing with the 'manager', two tourist with guide (private car) arrived and they got their bungalow straight away. So I said, why do they have a bungalow and we don't? The manager spoke the very memorable words: '<em>they make reservation.....and they confirmed'.</em></b></span></span></div>
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<span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: 'Courier New';"><span style="font-family: Courier New;"><b>The whole thing became one big farce. To put it mildly. Very childish of me maybe, but I wanted to cry. But instead I said to him, show me the other hotel and if we take that, you give me a huge discount. So with the guide of the other couple and the 'manager' they showed us a fancy place in the middle of this town (2 streets). It looked clean but so ordinary. No balcony, Chinese business style. We didn't look for something like this. So he took us to another place, a dreadful looking bungalow park with no English speaking staff and with 45$ for a room, way over the top. But we had no choice: we agreed to take one of these bungalows. When he left, I exploded again. </b></span></span><br />
<b><span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: 'Courier New';"><span style="font-family: Courier New;"><br /></span></span>
<span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: 'Courier New';"><span style="font-family: Courier New;">I looked at the shit hole of a room and decided to explore the village on my own. I checked out the 'Sea Sar Guesthouse'. Okay bungalows, bit rundown but Myanmar clean and hot water. Between 25, 30 and 35$. </span><span style="font-family: 'Courier New';">Pan Myo Thu Inn I could not find. I went back to our first hotel, 'the Bawga Theiddhi hotel'. After all we saw, this one seems to be the only real mid range place. For Myanmar matters, I think posh. And it comes with free internet which is pretty rare in this town. I collected Klaas at the other place and we checked in at this strange 'design hotel' across the street from where the trucks leave for the Golden Rock. </span></span></b></div>
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<span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: 'Courier New';"><span style="font-family: 'Courier New';"><b><br />
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<span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: 'Courier New';"><b>And bad luck continued. When we unpacked, a bottle of wine fell on the floor of our room in 10000 pieces. I was still very upset and angry and we both were hungry. So we looked at each other saying: 'Okay we have to go out of this place, have a beer and eat, otherwise we'll end up fighting'. So we did. We ran into Clemence and Caroline from Brussels. They are on a 3 month honeymoon. I sign up for that :-). Like us they just arrived and were looking for a place to eat. This little town is totally different then all the other places in Myanmar. There are hardly any tourists, no English signs and the everybody here seems totally indifferent. Like they really don't give a shit. Is this the true Myanmar life, not influenced by tourism?</b></span></div>
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<span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: 'Courier New';"><span style="font-family: Courier New;"><b>This is really our lucky day...when we told Clemence about our frustrations he told us to stand still and prepare for another one...</b></span></span></div>
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<span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: 'Courier New';"><span style="font-family: Courier New;"><b><br />
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<span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: 'Courier New';"><span style="font-family: Courier New; font-size: large;"><b>THE GOLDEN ROCK IS UNDER RENOVATION </b></span></span></div>
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<span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: 'Courier New';"><span style="font-family: Courier New; font-size: large;"><b>AND TOTALLY COVERED..</b></span></span></div>
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<span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: 'Courier New';"><span style="font-family: Courier New; font-size: x-large;"><b>SHOCK!!!!!!</b></span></span></div>
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<span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: 'Courier New';"><span style="font-family: Courier New;"><b><br />
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<span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: 'Courier New';"><span style="font-family: Courier New;"><b>Clemence, no! you are kidding us, right? NO! Clemence is not kidding us, it's under renovation and covered with bamboo mats. Now is the time to start crying, but as a 42 year old woman that seems such an odd thing to do. So instead I decided to start drinking beer. We found a place that looked the least dodgy and after quit some hassle (the ladies of the restaurants at Kunpin are very aggressive sales tigers) we sat down and had a couple of beers (Not one for free though; we are really running out of luck here). Clemence his beer was still frozen. So no new beer...just a bowl of water to put it into: Myanmar style.</b></span></span></div>
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<span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: 'Courier New';"><span style="font-family: Courier New;"><b><br />
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<span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: 'Courier New';"><span style="font-family: Courier New;"><b>Caroline and Clemence are a fun couple to hang out with. We chatted and had actually a really nice diner. We decided to go to the Golden Rock at 8am the next morning, just for the sake of it. Up there we want to try to find a guide for some hiking back to town. We read on Tripadvisor in several reports that the hiking here is fantastic. After we said goodnight to the Belgium couple we tried to find a guide in town, but nobody speaks English or seems to give a s... So we ended up in bed around 9pm. Frustrated, angry and tired. Why the hell nobody told us that the Rock is under renovation. Why?</b></span></span></div>
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<span style="color: #ff9a00; font-family: 'Courier New';"><b><span style="font-size: x-large;">Day 23: Golden Fock ! </span><span style="font-size: large;">(& more fcuk fcuk fcuk)</span></b></span></div>
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<b><span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: 'Courier New';"><span style="font-family: Courier New;">We slept good, which I didn't expect. When we looked out of the window the sky was pitch black...no way! Rain? Yes rain, much rain. While we were having 'breakfast' (toast, fake strawberry jam and an egg) heaven burst </span></span><span style="font-family: 'Courier New';">open and it started to rain cats & dogs (more like elephants & hippo's). Wow, so much rain. I looked at Klaas starting to shake my head. This is just not going to happen here anymore.</span></b></div>
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<span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: 'Courier New';"><span style="font-family: Courier New;"><b><br />
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<span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: 'Courier New';"><span style="font-family: Courier New;"><b>Serious rainfall, click on video:</b></span></span></div>
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<b><span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: 'Courier New';"><span style="font-family: Courier New;"><br /></span></span>
<span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: 'Courier New';"><span style="font-family: Courier New;">I want to go. And there it was, I said it: I want to go, leave this horrible place with the covered rock. Klaas looked deep in my eyes and totally agreed, ha ha. He run to the bus station to change our bus tickets. We also went to the truck station at 8am to see if Clemence and Caroline were there but they weren't, so they probably stayed in their room (good choice!). We packed our bags and had four hours time to kill. I wrote my blog and Klaas did some reading, some counting (he counts our money daily, so cute) and some e-mailing. We had an early lunch (fried water cress with an omelet, just to be on the safe side) and waited for the bus which was 80 minutes late: nothing seems to work in this village. While I am typing this, I am totally fed up by it all. This town has totally no potential pfffffff...</span></span></b></div>
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<span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: 'Courier New';"><span style="font-family: Courier New;"><b>This is the guy at the bus station:</b></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Courier New;"><b>and this is what we saw of the Golden Rock...a beautiful calendar.</b></span></div>
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Whatelleshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02243872263855557277noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4157482893926026680.post-84965816485809020272013-01-25T18:45:00.001-08:002014-11-09T01:41:07.434-08:00Ngapali Beach<span style="color: #ff9a00; font-family: 'Courier New';"><span style="font-size: x-large;"><b>Day 17: We made a reservation </b></span></span><br />
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<b><span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); color: #ff9a00; font-family: 'Courier New';"><span style="font-size: small;">(with confirmation</span></span><span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); color: #ff9a00; font-family: 'Courier New'; font-size: large;">)</span><span style="color: #ff9a00; font-family: 'Courier New';"><span style="font-size: x-large;">, really!</span></span></b><br />
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<span style="font-family: Courier New;"><b>In our previous hotel we met an older couple, Sue and William from the UK, who needed a ride to the airport at the same time we did. So we shared a taxi. Easy piecy, 18.000K. They picked us up at our hotel at 7.30am (early!!) and we had a great chat with these two world travellers. One of their sons lives in Indonesia, in a town Sue describes as 'the ass hole of the world', which made me laugh so much. Sue and William have a house near Toulouse where they live permanently. At least once a year they travel to Asia. I like to see that people at that age are still so alive and kicking and adventurous (maybe Sue a little bit more then William -who is an accountant-,..which says it all :-)</b></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Courier New;"><b>Like all the other flights we took, we had great fun at the airport...uuuhhhh airport? See it more like a big room with chairs and people running around with signs in their hands saying which flight needs to board. So relaxed. The guys at the x-ray machines don't even look at our stuff on their computers. Liquid on board,..hell why not? Surprisingly there was an espresso joint in the waiting area, so for 2.000K we had a proper cappuccino, mmmm delicious. Our plain took off right on time and after having a chicken sandwich, some pastry and a coffee, we landed at the airport of Ngapali beach. We looked for our complementary hotel pick up taxi, but there was nobody with a sign in his hands with my name on it. I asked around and one guy said: 'Yes it's me for Memento resort'. So after a ride of 15 minutes we were dropped of at the Memento resort which I booked 2 months ago. </b></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Courier New;"><b>The lady behind the reception had no idea who we were. There was just NO reservation of us in their handwritten system. We showed her all the e-mails we sent and the confirmations, but she kept on saying 'different resort'. I was flabbergasted and showed this straight away. Klaas looked angry at me and snarled to keep my big mouth shut. I know that it's wrong to show my emotions, but after all my preparations and confirmed reservations, months before showing up, I can't stand it that -with all of the written proof in my hand and on my iPad- people say it's not their problem. </b></span></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Courier New;">What the actual problem was, I still don't know, but after quit a bit of hassle we got our 50$ bungalow</span><span style="font-family: 'Courier New';"> </span><span style="font-family: 'Courier New';">without twin beds </span><span style="font-family: 'Courier New';">which we specifically requested! There were no twin beds available said the lady. On</span><span style="font-family: 'Courier New';"> our last day we had to switch to a 35$ bungalow in the back row, because the 50$ bungalows were already reserved for other people. </span><span style="font-family: 'Courier New';">After another hassle, we got an extra sheet and blanket. That's why we always ask for twin beds, we need our own sheet and blanket (difficult sleepers you could say!). The mattress was about 3 cm thick and the sheets were made of polyester and as usual too small for the bed. So after turning around a few times, the sheet on the mattress folds up so in the morning you notice that you slept on the (dirty) mattress...aarghhhhh..</span></b></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Courier New';"><b>We explored the surroundings a bit and went to the nearest village, Thandwe. We took a tuk tuk (40 minutes, 500K pp) to buy some gear to make our bungalow and bed a bit less spartan and more comfortable. Thandwe is a small village with no tourists, so we were an attraction again. After buying our stuff, which was not easy, we bought some pastries at the market and took a tuk tuk back to our bungalow. </b></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Courier New;"><b>For sunset we met Simon in his posh hotel named 'Bayview', next door to our backpack kind of place. Bayview is everything you wish for if you are looking for peace and comfort. I was so jealous of him. He showed us his bungalow. I was basically gasping for air...the shower, with all the pebbles, that enormous bed,..that...that....damn what a super cool place. "Although it's a lot of money, it's worth every penny" (Simon's words).</b></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Courier New;"><b>We sat down at his beach bar and watched the sunset while nipping on our 5$ cocktails. Quit cheap drinks for such a nice hotel (glass of decent wine also 5$). We took a couple more and decided to have diner across the street, because the food is really expensive at Bayview. We found a great place near our bungalow called 'Golden Rose' were we ordered all kinds of fresh fish...wowww! Dirt cheap: 4.000K for a fish, potatoes and lovely avocado/tomato salad. To top it off with a 2.000K beer. The owner and his son are such a nice people. The son works during the day at the Bayview...what a life: work ..work..and work, and still look happy and warm & helpful towards the customers.</b></span></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: 'Courier New';">That night we slept very bad. Why? Because the air conditioning of the 'fancy' 85$ apartment above us was</span><span style="font-family: 'Courier New';"> heavily </span><span style="font-family: 'Courier New';">dripping water on our thin iron roof. This made such a noise, the whole fu.. night long, that we could not sleep.</span><span style="font-family: 'Courier New';"> It sounded like a heavy rain shower. </span><span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: 'Courier New';">Klaas was totally fed up with it all at 3am and whispered in my ear: 'Darling no worries, we move to that beautiful place next door where Simon is in too, and I pay the extra costs..'. I was flabbergasted, but so happily surprised by his gesture.</span></b></div>
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<span style="font-family: Courier New;"><b>Or blankets on the roof,..like that will help...yeah right!</b></span></div>
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<b><span style="color: #ff9a00; font-family: 'Courier New';"><span style="font-size: x-large;">Day 18: It's all about finding the right place</span></span><span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: 'Courier New';"><br />
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<span style="font-family: 'Courier New';"><b>The next morning we saw that the staff of Memento knows all about our roof dripping air con problem, because there was a blanket on the roof to avoid noise coming from the dripping air con above it. What a stupid solution. Again, tourism, service and Myanmar: a long way to go. What makes me angry is that they ask European prices (in eight years time prices for accommodations are multiplied by four !! I know because I still have my old Lonely Planet from 2005) without providing any (extra) comfort and/or service. I think this is so wrong and probably will work against them in the long run; that's what I hope because this whole industry right now is all greediness.</b></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Courier New';"><b>We checked out at the Memento Resort the next morning. I was so grateful to Klaas that he firmly made the decision to go to the Bayview (113€ a night!), because this week on the beach was something we looked forward to so much, and with this very unpractical and noisy bungalow we were definitely not going to have a good time! But Elles is Elles; I was actually really angry that after all the problems we had, we still had to pay the full amount for that night. 50$ is just crazy for such a place. At least showe some understanding for our feelings and deal with it, in a way. But complaints are just not in their vocabulary. Although I have much appreciation for the Myanmar people, there is a limit to my comprehension. In Thailand a bungalow of this kind would not cost more then 15$ (and it comes without leaking aircon's).</b></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Courier New';"><b>But checking out, doesn't mean checking in. We went to the Bayview to use their computer room to book through Agoda (the only way possible to pay with a credit card). The walk-in rate of the Bayview is 190$. There are only a few hotels in Myanmar that are <em>bookable</em> through Agoda (the only booking site that offers Myanmar accommodation). The lady of the reception asked us what we were up to. We explained to her that we were about to book this hotel for 5 nights. She said that it was not allowed for non guest to use their computers. Duhhhhh, we said, let us use the computer so we can book this hotel. Happily for us a smarter reception clerk understood us but the internet of the Bayview didn't work so we left to find an internet cafe. There was one around the corner, so we tried to book the hotel, but only 2 out of 5 nights were available. Damn...! Klaas went back to the hotel to talk to the hotel manager who told us that except for 1 night he had a room for us. We didn't mind taking that risk; for sure someone will cancel and we will be able to stay also that particular day. The manager 'opened' the dates we needed in Agoda and we were able to book our ridiculous splurge midweek. Oooh yeah! But my god, what a hassle! This is the downside of travelling in Myanmar. No ATM's and no credit card payments possible. </b></span></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: 'Courier New';">Our room looks horrible, as well as the swimming pool:-) </span><span style="font-family: 'Courier New';">See for yourself:</span></b></div>
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<span style="font-family: Courier New;"><b>After we jumped around in our huge room -like little children- and taking a loooooooong hot shower, connected all our electrical gear, we said <em>hi</em> to Simon (the lucky bastard was moving to a beach front bungalow). He was so surprised to see us, and that we decided to stay at his place while the night before we told him that the resort was waaaaaaaay above our budget. </b></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Courier New;"><b>What we saw was one over the top priced resort, after the other. It's really ridiculous. The resorts are huge (we often got lost finding the reception). All the premises are super well maintained and nicely decorated, but prices start most of the time at 250$ a night. Seriously..? Yes! So what happens: there are no backpackers nor flash packers, instead only old senior kind of package tour tourists with little to no Myanmar interest (this is my own opinion after doing 'Elles style' research. Most of the resorts were at least half empty. Not in our place, always fully booked and has by far the coolest and chillest vibe of all the places we saw (but hardly any young people 30/40 year). </b></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Courier New;"><b>Strange place this Ngapali beach and what a shame that such a fantastic beach is basically not 'available' for the less fortunate tourists and travellers. The only three places that have 'budget' options ar Lin Thar Oo click <a href="http://lintharoo-ngapali.com/" target="_self" title="">here</a>(60$ for a beachfront bungalow, very run down. Or a new one, very nice for 80$) and Memento resort (35$ for a very simple bungalow no sea view no airco, or 50$ for beach bungalow, very simple and old with airco and 85$ for a normal bungalow). </b></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Courier New;">And last the lovely Yoma Cherry, click <a href="http://yomacherrylodge.com/" target="_self" title="">here</a>, a 15 minute walk from the 'main' area. Yoma Cherry offers bungalows between 50-70 dollar but the room comes with free bikes. All these places have no electricity between 6am and 6pm (so only at night).</span></b></div>
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<span style="font-family: Courier New;"><b>After our long exploring walk, we had lunch at #1 Tripadvisor restaurant Silver Winner. According to the TA contributors, this is the place to be. Right! Food wise, no complaints, but service wise we got totally annoyed by 3 girls of the staff breathing in our necks. Privacy,..Jeehuuu? The cook / owner came also to our table and asked if everything was alright. Please people, leave us alone for a bit. Actually, we didn't like the place. It was all so extremely pushy and too much in our face. Again, I try to understand that they think we like this kind of service, and that they are very anxious to make us feel at home, but for us this works totally the other way around. </b></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Courier New;"><b>We had a rendez vous around sunset with Simon in his oooh la la fancy beachfront bungalow. We bought some wine and Simon managed to get a few candles, chairs nuts and a wine cooler at the restaurant. Look at us, sitting like kings, watching another crazy sunset; finally without any of the notorious Myanmar touristic drama, but with Mr. Jobs nearby...(if you look closely you see an iPad and and Iphone to catch the dramatic sunset)..</b></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Courier New;"><b>For diner we went again to our favourite place across the street from our hotel, the 'Golden Rose'. Simon had lunch there that day, and specially asked the owner to throw in some bottles of white Myanmar wine and 3 big snappers (fish) for our diner that evening. When we arrived, the table was all set up with a sign 'reserved' and the wine cooler stood firmly in the middle of the table: let the games begin! </b></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Courier New;"><b>We had again a wonderful evening (Simon is a charming and vivid story teller and Klaas and me don't mind to share our stories). It was also great to see that the Myanmar staff of our hotel, and the German manager Patrick, were having their own private drinking party in the back of the restaurant. We are almost sure that the staff working at the Bayview really enjoy their job and I also think that the management of Bayview takes good care of them. You never know for sure, but from what I have seen: no alarm bells.</b></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Courier New;"><b>The next morning (after a fantastic night sleep...finally!) we saw Simon who was just checking out. We hugged each other and promised each other to keep in touch. Simon didn't sleep that well, since the kitchen staff (next to his fancy up scaled bungalow) decided to have a party till 5 in the morning. That's why we never take fancy up scaled bungalows :-) Simon looked so tired, or was that because of the 3 bottles wine and some cocktails we drank the night before?</b></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Courier New;"><b>While Simon went off to the airport, we went to our first Bayview breakfast buffet. And that was no punishment, what so ever, ladies en gentleman! Wow, I like! Pastries, fresh juice, eggs, pancakes, real cheese, muesli, yogurt and to top it all off: great coffee latte. View: a magnificent swimming pool. I can get used to this.</b></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Courier New;"><b>The rest of the day we basically didn't do anything, besides swimming, working on the golden brown tan, hanging around, eating, drinking, another swim (pool or clear blue sea...damn all these choices!). We wrote some postcards while we had lunch at Htay Htay (good lunch, nice place). </b></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Courier New';"><b>I took it really easy while my cold wasn't getting any better. Having a cold at the beach..WTF *%#^!! Fortunately there is a cooker in our room, so every few hours, me and my nose take a steam bath and we sniff purified salty water. Aaarggg, not my favourite waste of time. I also bought some heavy tiger kind of balm which opens all the pores in my body. That will do the trick hopefully.</b></span></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: 'Courier New';">There is one thing we didn't really figured out yet, and that is our ride from the airport of Yangon to the north-east, to Golden Rock, in 3 days time. When we collected our plane tickets at our travel agency </span><em style="font-family: 'Courier New';">Peace House Travel</em><span style="font-family: 'Courier New';"> in Yangon, we saw that our flight back from the beach to Yangon was an afternoon flight, not a morning flight as agreed upon. May, owner of </span><em style="font-family: 'Courier New';">Peace House Travel</em><span style="font-family: 'Courier New';"> knew very well that the only demand we had, was a morning flight from Thandwe back to Yangon. Klaas already figured out back in Holland that there was no morning flight with KBZ that day, but May assured us that there was. When we collected our tickets, we noticed on our tickets the difference in time. No morning flight, but an afternoon flight. What???</span></b></div>
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<span style="font-family: Courier New;"><b>May said to us that there was just NO alternative aircraft company for morning flights back to Yangon. She explained to us how difficult the whole flight thing is in Myanmar; not enough planes & pilots, so itinerary's change all the time. We totally believed that. And I think to a certain extend it's true, (but in our case I think it was not). So back then we thought we had no other choice and more or less accepted it.</b></span></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Courier New;">But frankly, over the past couple of weeks, we talked to several travel agencies at several places throughout Myanmar and they all told us the Air Bagan and Air Mandalay flights do ALWAYS fly in the morning, already for a long time. The KBZ flight, she booked for us, on a Tuesday, is at 15.40pm for quit some time. Only on Wednesday, Friday and Saturday KBZ offers morning flights at 9.30am. Like Klaas already figured out in Holland. So this information has been available for quit some time. I don't understand why they booked us on a KBZ flight (with the wrong time, while two other companies offer morning flights). This bothers me a lot actually. </span><span style="font-family: 'Courier New';">So in order to arrive early in Yangon we now have to buy new tickets with Air </span><span style="font-family: 'Courier New';">Mandalay.</span></b></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Courier New;">By the way, we noticed that all our KBZ tickets are more expensive then the Air Mandalay tickets. Every time we fly, I ask people what they paid for their tickets. Our KBZ tickets are always quit a bit more expensive then the other aircraft companies offer (</span><span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: 'Courier New';">same day, same itinerary)</span><span style="font-family: 'Courier New';">. Sometimes there is a 16$ (!!) difference per ticket. I don't mind that a travel agent takes some money as an agency fee, but I would like to have known this. Explain it to the customers, because I assume that a travel agent takes the cheapest option for their clients, not the most </span><span style="font-family: Courier New;">expensive. </span><span style="font-family: 'Courier New';">So when we collect our refund at Peace House Travel, I want to discuss this thing with May, I like to understand why she did it this way. </span></b></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Courier New;">Pfffff...well, now this is all been said, we still have to arrange a car from Yangon to our hotel near the Golden Rock. I just posted a message on TA forum and I was so happy that 'SnowDropLondon' responded to my question by saying that a taxi to Golden Sunrise is going to cost us not more then 75$ (through Traders Hotel). The price we got through a Myanmar travel agent 'Oway', click <a href="http://www.oway.com.mm/" target="_self" title="">here</a>,</span><span style="font-family: Courier New;"> was 250$ one way, which made us laugh and shiver at the same time. So we will take our chances and negotiate a price at the airport. Adventure!</span></b><br />
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<span style="font-family: Courier New;"><b>I asked Klaas if he didn't mind to have diner 'at home'. We are having such a great terrace and lazy chairs, I like to enjoy this luxury. Besides that, I really want to take it easy to get rid of this silly cold. So we got ourselves a great diner (from the Golden Rose again), but this time in white plastic take away cups. It was yet another perfect evening while Keane played their best songs.</b></span></div>
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<span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: 'Courier New';"><b>It wasn't easy; the next morning we had to pull ourselves out of our mega comfi beds, towards the breakfast buffet (joke). While Klaas went to his most favourite place in whole Myanmar (the egg station), he met a strange species there. A German woman that barked to the 'egg man' of the egg station. According to her, he didn't know shit about cooking eggs, bla, bla, bla! After she sent one omelet to the trash bin, she took over the station and began frying her own scrambled eggs. When Klaas came back to our table, he was disgusted by her behaviour. I said, always in for a riot, let's talk to here, let us explain her something about human behaviour vs politeness. But as always, Klaas didn't want me to put up a scene, so we ignored this monster - probably a country side imbecile - who thinks that Myanmar is some kind of region of Lloret del Mar.</b></span></div>
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<span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: 'Courier New';"><b>We like to hang around the buffet, talk to the elderly ;-) and drink tons of coffee. Klaas met two very spontaneous men from our country (Breda) who are retired and enjoying life for the full two million percent. They just did a two months around the world cruise (that involves dancing, jogging on the deck and black tie diners). During wintertime these two blokes always take two months time out in Holland to spent time at Hua Hin (Thailand). Two well dressed men, far away in their sixties and already 43 years together. I say hurrah for such an achievement! We invited ourselves (a very Dutch thing to do) that evening at the boys (Wijnand and Ad) bungalow, promising them that we bring a chilled bottle of white wine. In return we asked them to entertain us with their (cruise) stories. And by cruising I mean sailing on a boat..</b></span></div>
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<span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: 'Courier New';"><b>And there they were: <em>zeeeeeeee</em> Russians!!!! They spoiled Thailand and Egypt and probably they slowly start taking over Myanmar too? I feel so bad about this. I think that Russians are the most horrible travellers/tourists in the whole wide world and I have far too often totally been disgusted by their manners and overall presence. This is really bad news and although the Myanmar people do not have that much experience with (mass) tourism, they know very well who Russians are, and they are not happy with their presence at all.</b></span></div>
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<b><span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: 'Courier New';">Around sunset we went to our 2 Dutch men.</span><span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: 'Courier New';"> These guys are full of funny stories. There seems to be no ending to what they've seen, done and are going to do. After 2 bottles of wine, we asked them to come along to our favourite Golden Rose for diner. Good choice, because Ad is crazy about French fries and they happen to make a damn good 'frietje' (Dutch for fries) at the Golden Rose. I think we, all together, had 4 plates of various fresh fish and 5 plates packed with 'frietjes' (of which Ad ate at least 4) and a few plates of avocado and tomato salad. It's such a luxury to have this kind of food available, so fresh, so tasteful for only a couple of dollars.</span></b></div>
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<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><span style="font-family: Courier New;"><b>We are in Myanmar now for 3 weeks. I am sad that time flies so very fast. I remember so clearly that we arrived in Yangon at the Sunflower hotel, but it also feels like centuries ago. We haven't had one argument yet, my lovely honey bunny and me, and we've been counting our blessings every day. We are healthy and we made the right choice not to go for the whole baby and children thing; instead we travel and that suits us more then perfect. Well enough of these reflections, we have things to do! We have to move out of the Bayview, they are still fully booked, there were no cancellations. We saw that one coming, so we went made a reservation for 2 nights at the place next door, 'LinThar Oo'. They have a few brand new wooden bungalows on the beach for 'only' 80$. </b></span></span></div>
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<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><span style="font-family: Courier New;"><b>After chatting again for a long time with our brand new BFF's Ad and Wijnand while having another superb breakfast, we packed our things. I moved my stuff in three times. I am so fed up with packing my backpack (hihi). The bungalow of LinThar Oo is fab! Wow! I am actually happy that we had to move out of Bayview; this is the real Thai beach vibe I feel here! With one foot I'm standing in my bungalow with the other one in the sea. I am so spoilt right now.</b></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Courier New;"><b>Our gay happy men came to take a look in our rustic bungalow, and although Ad couldn't really believe that no electricity during the day is possible, they both agreed our bungalow wasn't as bad as they expected, ha ha. We said goodbye to them, because they were about to take off to Yangon. We unpacked our stuff and sat down on our fantastic porch overlooking the silver white sandy beach while listening to gentle waves rolling on the shore. The rest of the day we did nothing, except for things you expect people to do at the beach on a sunny day. Klaas has a bit of a cold again so we took things easy. </b></span></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: 'Courier New';">We had lunch at Paradise across the street, okay </span><em style="font-family: 'Courier New';">fruits-de-mer</em><span style="font-family: 'Courier New';"> noodles. By the way, I forgot to explain about the crown cap's of Myanmar beer bottles. Well we've could have been drinking free beers for the past 3 weeks, if we would have known that there are hidden messages under the plastic layers in every Myanmar beer cap...</span></b></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Courier New';"><b>Free bottle/1.000K discount/500K discount/100K discount. And if you are unlucky you get this one:</b></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Courier New';"><b>That says: <em>Je su tin ba de</em> (thank you).</b></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Courier New';"><b>If we only had known....</b></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Courier New;"><b>That night we stayed in again. I went to the Golden Rose for some small bites to take home and a few candles for some extra romance. With 2 bottles of chill wine in the fridge and the latest novel of Leon de Winter on my e-reader, our evening on the porch was going to be just perfect.</b></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Courier New;"><b>The night before, at the Golden Rose, I met an Italian guy who stays also at the Lin Thar Oo (LTO). We chatted for a while and the next morning we saw each other again at the breakfast table. By the way, they serve a pretty decent breakfast buffet at LTO. He told me that he shares a bungalow with a German guy. We chatted about the usual stuff people talk about while travelling. His German room mate joined us later and I found out that both man are gay but that was the only thing they had in common. Wow, two totally different characters. Later that day John (Italian) and me walked all the way to the end of the bay (1 hour walk). </b></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Courier New;"><b>The Ngapali bay is so extremely beautiful, many older aged travellers think it feels like Thailand 30 years ago (but with Swiss prices :-)). </b></span></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Courier New;">I didn't take my camera with me, but John promised me to sent some pics of our walk. At the end of the bay, on the cliffs, there is a cute little (expensive) restaurant were we had two lovely cocktails (the pina colada is fantastic with fresh milk directly from the coconut). Later the German (nameless) guy showed up and ordered a carrot juice, which made John and me laugh so much. This guy is totally healthy. He swims, runs and doesn't drink alcohol, and that shows. I almost asked him if they <em>photoshoped</em> his body. The Italian is totally the opposite, back home they call him 'Sue Ellen' (Dallas, alcoholic, remember?) and he smokes. So there I was, sitting in between 2 guys with totally different views on how to life, arguing German vs Italian style. Pfffff.</span><span style="font-family: 'Courier New';">(The next morning I think they decided to go separate ways, which I think was a wise idea).</span></b></div>
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<span style="font-family: Courier New;"><b>That evening we packed our bags feeling sorry for ourselves. Our days at the beach are almost over :-( We had dinner for the last time at our favourite Golden Rose. I gave the owner two wooden shoes on a hanger from Holland and he gave me a cute shelf with Ngapali written on it. So cute. </b></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Courier New;"><b>Bye Bye beautiful beach!!</b></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Courier New;"><b>Traveller facts: Accommodation is very expensive at the beach. If you want a bit of service and a good breakfast is will cost you around 135$ a night (Bayview). There are only view 'budget' options. Linthar Oo/Memento/ArkanLand/Yoma Cherry. Food is very cheap. A set menu with a whole fresh fish is 4.000K. Tuktuk to Thandwe 500K. pp one way. Happy hour almost everywhere between 5-7pm. Fancy drinking in the big hotels 5$ per cocktail. There are good wines available at the local liquor store (near the new hotel Jade resort & spa/ next to Ngapali Kitchen). Decent red French wine 7.000K. a bottle. Our favourite restaurant by far: The Golden Sunrise. The worst: Silver Winner. We also liked Ngapali Kitchen a lot. Next door to Htay Htay is an internet cafe May: 1 hour: 1.000K. The Bayview has free wifi. Password: ocean (they will probably hate me for sharing this). Flight to and from Yangon to Thandwe airport: 99$.</b></span></div>
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Whatelleshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02243872263855557277noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4157482893926026680.post-59034164347662555322013-01-21T21:42:00.001-08:002014-11-09T01:41:28.677-08:00Inle Lake<div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Courier New, Courier, monospace;"><span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969);">Well the breakfast part is really bad at the Pindaya and a whole group tour of silly Swiss people arrived the night before </span><span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: 'Courier New';">(they where ALL sitting in their underwear in the sun at their balconies the day before...I saw many many many big white bra's and huge shinny panties),</span><span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: 'Courier New';"> so we decided to grab a cup of coffee outside in the sun and hit the road as quickly as possible. Klaas made a fantastic deal with the cab driver who brought us to Pindaya to take us for 50.000K to Inle lake (another world wide highlight place in the world). But to be honest, it is crazy that we pay all together 100.000K for Heho-Pindaya/Pindaya-Inle Lake. It's a short distance and the roads are horrible and it took us back about 3,5 hours to get to Inle, but still, this amount is way over the top. </span></span></b><br />
<b><span style="font-family: Courier New, Courier, monospace;"><span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: 'Courier New';"><br /></span>
<span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: 'Courier New';">Not only the price irritated me heavily, also the way the taxi driver drove and especially how many times he honked his horn. Every f&*^ second sounds his horn which, at a certain point, wanted me to kill him. Thank god for my iPod and headphones. What a shame that the government doesn't use their energy in a really good way and put a stop to this idiotic way of driving (this happens by the way all over Myanmar except for Yangon where honking the horn is forbidden!)</span></span></b></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Courier New, Courier, monospace;"><span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: 'Courier New';"><br /></span>
<span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: 'Courier New';">We arrived at the PYI1 guesthouse (near Inle Lake at the backpack district called Nyaung Shwe) around noon, our room wasn't ready yet. When we sat down for a coffee, we saw already many many backpackers hop from one guesthouse to the other to find a bed to sleep in. No chance, every bed is taken. It's ridiculous, but if you made no reservation, you are so screwed!</span></span></b></div>
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<span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: Courier New, Courier, monospace;"><b>We walked into town (LOOOOOOOVE THIS LIVELY LITTLE TOWN!) to rent some bikes and met an old guy, Mr Win, on his motorbike. He asked if we were interested to be on a boat tour with him the next day. Straight away I felt good about the guy. This was actually a type of boatman I hoped to find around Inle Lake. After 15 minutes we agreed upon a price and most important the itinerary (more information later in this chapter) and came back one hour later at the PYI1 with bikes and a boat tour, YES!</b></span></div>
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<span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: Courier New, Courier, monospace;"><b>I found the whole place not my cup of tea. Difficult to explain why I feel this way, but it's a really narrow place without any views, the bungalows are very simple and you can hear everything your neighbours whisper. Just for comparison, in Thailand this would cost maximum 20$ a night, here 45$. I know, it's not really fair to compare, but still. I paid 10$ for a nicer room, 8 years back. The shower has almost no pressure, so washing my hair took me ages! No wifi (you can use a computer of the owner though). Basic breakfast: yogurt, eggs, toast, fruit and instant coffee. There is no fridge. Just all very basic, but charming. </b></span></div>
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<span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: Courier New, Courier, monospace;"><b><br />
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<b><span style="font-family: Courier New, Courier, monospace;"><span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: 'Courier New';">The owner, a pretty young guy, spontaneous type, lived in the UK for several years, but I just didn't like him. Sometimes there is just no click, instead alarm bells go off. </span><span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: 'Courier New';">So we are trying now to get into The Princess Garden (tried that already back in Holland several times, but all the time full already). We went by the place already twice, but it's all the time fully booked. The owner really wants to help us, so we call him again tomorrow to see if anybody cancelled his booking (this apparently happens quit often). This Princess Garden is awesome. It has a cute little swimming pool and the whole surrounding is so nice, very green and urban. Just a good vibe, felt it straight away.</span></span></b></div>
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<span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: Courier New, Courier, monospace;"><b><br />
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<span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: Courier New, Courier, monospace;"><b>The rest of the day we explored this lively town and had a great avocado salad with rice crackers, mjummie. We saw the German lady again and she told us, she found a dorm room for 9$. We asked her if she wanted to be with us on the boat the next day and she liked it, great! She showed me the dormitory. OMG! x 1000. I could never sleep with 8 people in one room on a cold floor on a thin mattress with only a cold shower outside. I just could not believe she was capable of doing this and calling it 'holiday'. She asked us if we wanted to join her for a <em>wine tasting sunset afternoon</em> at the vineyard about 2 miles out of town. Well if wine is involved and drinking, you don't have to ask us twice, so the vineyard it will be! </b></span></div>
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<span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: Courier New, Courier, monospace;"><b>Later that afternoon, near the busy market, we saw Simon (we met back in Bagan). He was sitting in a trickshaw (lazy bastard!) exploring the city. He was happy to see us. He actually just dropped me an e-mail where to meet. It was Simon's lucky day and we had a full boat the next day. Germany, the UK and Holland in one boat, I say: good fun!</b></span></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Courier New, Courier, monospace;">At 4.30pm we cycled together with Inga (Germany-Darmstad) to the Red Mountain vineyard. A fantastic 20 minute ride where we saw much rural live and traffic! The vineyard is on the top of a mountain and the views are breathtaking, we thought we were in France. </span></b></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Courier New, Courier, monospace;">Inga suggested to have diner in a Nepali place so we went there and really enjoyed this food which was actually new to us. We went to bed early, Mr. Win is going to pick us up at 7.30am!</span></b></div>
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<span style="color: #ff9a00;"><span style="font-family: Courier New, Courier, monospace; font-size: x-large;"><b>Day 14: More whiskey Mr. Win?</b></span></span></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Courier New, Courier, monospace;"><span style="text-align: left;">There he was, Mr. Win in disguise, 7.30am sharp. He was wearing a woollen hat all over his face, like he was about to robe a bank. We picked up Inga and Simon at their hotels and walked to the docking place. Many boats were about to leave. This here is big big tourist land, but still pretty </span><em style="text-align: left;">doable</em><span style="text-align: left;">. Mr. Win has it's own boat, The Inle Taxi. Five chairs with a pillow to sit on and blankets to deal with the morning cold. Great gear Mr. Win! Let's go.</span></span></b></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Courier New, Courier, monospace;">I was sitting in the back so Mr. Win tapped on my shoulder all the time he wanted to explain about something. While his English was understandable most of the time, with the motor engine making quit a bit of noise, I often had no clue what he meant. Our first stop was the 5 day market (held in a different village every day). </span></b></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Courier New, Courier, monospace;">It was amazing. So many people, so many vendors, so many items to buy. Mr. Win bought us all a coffee and delicious fried fresh split pea tofu and churros (Dutch: soort lange oliebollen). </span></b></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Courier New, Courier, monospace;">What a treat. After the market we sailed to the part of Inle Lake that is opened to the public only a few years back. The people living here, lived in total poorness and without any knowledge what was going on in their own country. For example, the buddhist demonstrations, they had no idea. We stopped in a small village with a beautiful pagoda with shinny little things on the top. The village recently has a school and many kids from the whole region go there and sleep there too. You could say it's kind of a boarding school. Mr. Win was really proud about the progress Myanmar is going through, certainly here at this place. Every week there is a firewood market in this place that was going to take place the next day. many farmers and vendors were already putting their firewood on the land. Simon thought he landed in the middle of a medieval movie. It was indeed totally surreal.</span></b></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Courier New, Courier, monospace;">We hit the water again and enjoyed every minute of it, certainly this southern part where we were the only tourist boat. We felt like being in the 'Apocalypse Now' movie. My only demand to Mr. Win was: no tourist boats and please keep away from the beaten path! And Mr. Win understood that perfectly. <span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: 'Courier New';">People kept on waving at us, which never gets boring, in contrary, it made me feel so happy. </span></span></b></div>
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<span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: Courier New, Courier, monospace;"><b>Our next stop was another old village where we had tea with a family in their own home. This village makes pottery and sells in throughout the whole Shan region. It was again so surreal. They dig big holes in the ground, make fire in it, put the soft clay items in it, so they can dry. After that they paint the items. </b></span></div>
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<span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: Courier New, Courier, monospace;"><b>Mr. Win is a very special guide. He knows everybody in every single village. His son is a monk and teacher and Mr. Win sometimes brings orphans from these small villages to his son's monastery. When we sat down with the family, had a green tea and Klaas suddenly was in a total culture shock. He realised that his life and theirs was 10000% different. The rest of the day he kept on telling me "Elles, this is all so much we see. Everything is so different from how we life."</b></span></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Courier New, Courier, monospace;">When we said goodbye to the family, I pulled out a pair of nice Dutch earrings (I have a small gift bag with me for special occasions) and gave it to the child of the family. According to Klaas, the family appreciated this enormously. I was too nervous/shy to take a good look at them after giving the present. I always feel that way because I don't know if they appreciate my gesture.</span></b></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Courier New, Courier, monospace;">After leaving the village we went back up the lake again. Mr. Win stopped at a brewery were they make, totally old skool, rice wine. Amazing how they do this. After that: rice wine tasting. Mmmmm good stuff. We all liked it a lot and I bought a bottle. </span></b><br />
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Simon decided that it tastes a bit like grappa. Klaas thought it was more a kind of sake. Anyway, whatever it tasted like, Mr. Win started to drink quit a bit of this cloudy white liquor. We paid the owner voluntary two dollars for the wine and finger bites; tea leaf salad and headed for a place to have lunch. It was already 2pm. The closer we got back on the northern part of the lake, the more touristy it got (but still so beautiful). </span></b></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Courier New, Courier, monospace;">Mr. Win passed all the boats and stopped at a quiet restaurant on the water. Lovely place with a big terrace. We sat down (we were the only ones) and ordered a set Shan meal lunch. Mr. Win started to drink one whiskey after the other. Within a time laps of 40 minutes Mr. Win was totally pissed (which was not funny anymore). Simon comes from the UK and Mr. Win already mentioned a few times the tensions between the UK and Myanmar (because of the colonial times). Now after a couple of drinks he really started to bully Simon about it. Simon didn't appreciated this, and teased Mr. Win. At a certain point we said: Simon be the smartest of you two and don't respond to him and anymore, just ignore it and let's hit the water again.</span></b></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Courier New, Courier, monospace;">We made sure Mr. Win ate his plate of food before we jumped in the boat. Inga wanted to see the longneck women. When we arrived at this wooden house on stilts two longneck's were weaving. The whole thing was a big tourist scam. The longnecks life 120 km further, so these women were put there just for our pleasure. Klaas and me did not enter the place and fortunately Simon and Inga turned around too. After this sad experience we sailed through the floating gardens where the farmers grow tomatoes. It was astonishing that this kind of agriculture was all on the water. </span></b><br />
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<b><span style="font-family: Courier New, Courier, monospace;">The last stop was at the jumping cat monastry. Inga liked to see it. No more jumping cats though. The buddhist decided that too many tourist are asking for this show, so it's not part of their routine anymore (which I totally understand).</span></b></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Courier New, Courier, monospace;">Being back in the boat we said to each other that Inle Lake will probably be like Venice in a couple of years. We are so scared what will happen to this pristine authentic place once the tourism industry really explodes.</span></b></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Courier New, Courier, monospace;">We said goodbye to Mr. Win who was pretty sober again. We told him we had a fantastic day on the lake, but that he should not drink while he's doing his work. He nodded, he knew. We gave him all a dollar tip. (The next day Klaas hooked him up with a few travellers. He was so happy with that. Klaas told him again: Mr. Win, keep away from the booze when you guide these people. He said -and I found that utterly cute-: I know, I am so angry with myself. So message understood. But I guess we were also part in his drinking. We encouraged him to pour out more and more rice wine, so in a way we were to blame too.</span></b><br />
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<b><span style="font-family: Courier New, Courier, monospace;">This was probably the best day we had so far. What a totally different atmosphere on the water.</span></b><br />
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<b><span style="font-family: Courier New, Courier, monospace;">The evening, the four of us had dinner together at Thoo Thoo. A romantic place that serves very tasty food. Avocado salad: 10 points, like the ginger salad. They served 'our' Tempranillo wine too, so we drank at least two bottles (12.000K each) while Inga told us her most embarrassing flight attendant stories! Red ears all over the place. Normally Simon, as a travel guide, is the one with the <i>'you won't believe this'</i> stories, but Inga defeated him by far with a story about a passenger shitting before the toilet, because he thought there were not enough toilets on the plain. Really, yes really! And this story was only to warm us up :-).</span></b></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Courier New, Courier, monospace;">We went to bed quit tipsy (and woke up pretty hang-overed but happy the next morning).</span></b></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Courier New, Courier, monospace;"><span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); color: #ff9a00; font-family: 'Courier New'; font-size: large;">Day 15: You don't like my room, then go!</span><br />
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<b><span style="font-family: Courier New, Courier, monospace;">Inga decided to cycle to the village of Maing Thauk (half of it is on the land, the other on the water). She wanted to see the forest monastery. We agreed upon leaving at 7.30am. It took as about 70 minutes (!) by bike to get there. Unfortunately there was no river view because of the foggy air. We talked a lot about her life, which hasn't been that great lately. So we shared some emotional moments. I like Inga a lot and I hope she will have the courage to make some dramatic changes in her life. </span></b></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Courier New, Courier, monospace;">When I came back at the hotel, Klaas didn't get a room at the Princess Garden ( I was soooo disappointed) so I went off to look for a different place. I didn't sleep well the past 2 nights and the whole vibe at PYI1 I hated. But what I basically already knew before starting my search: everything was full, full, full. When I came back I talked to the owner's wife about being unhappy with the water situation (no pressure-so basically no water) and the bad beds (hard and the linen to small for the beds). She referred me to her husband with whom I had a very unpleasant conversation. </span></b><br />
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I thought I was very polite to him but he reacted totally infuriated. It made me so angry, he was not reasonable at all. We pay 45$, which is a lot of money for this place. Am I allowed to ask some kind of service. I think it works both ways, right? That my alarm bells went off, when I first saw him, didn't ring undeserved. Klaas tried to reason with him too, but it just didn't work out. So we decided to start looking again for another place. It wasn't easy but we found a true gem, a few minutes out of town. It has everything, even fast wifi, a hot shower, a fridge, a soft mattress, a lovely breakfast with cheese and avocado and a porch. Guess what, 'only' 40$ a night. <span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: 'Courier New';">Me happy, Klaas happy. We quickly packed our bags, paid for the 2 nights at PYI1 and went to our hidden treasure Aung Mingalar. A 3 minute ride 'out' of town. </span></span></b></div>
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<span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: Courier New, Courier, monospace;"><b>The rest of the day we drank beers with Inga at a nice terrace next to the canal, we talked a lot and had a great pancake with avocado, garlic and onions. At 4pm we said goodbye to Inga, she was going to Yangon on a 20 hour bus ride...OMG! </b></span><br />
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<b><span style="font-family: Courier New, Courier, monospace;">Klaas and me took it easy the rest of the afternoon; reading books, writing blogs and having a great dinner at this upscale place called 'Green Chili'. A bit more expensive, but such a nice vibe and delicious food. Great quiet place, with outstanding service.</span></b></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Courier New, Courier, monospace;"><span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); color: #ff9a00; font-family: 'Courier New'; font-size: large;">Day 16: Hot springs and SoeSoe</span><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969);"><br />
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<b><span style="font-family: Courier New, Courier, monospace;">We slept great and were very surprised with our breakfast. A very appealing avocado, toasted bread, kind of cheese (or was it very old butter?), marmalade, eggs and a banana pancake. The only thing that a lot of the hotel staff in Myanmar do, and what in my opinion they really need to change is <em>'the hanging around the table</em>'. The guy in our hotel kept on standing next to our table, watching us closely. </span></b></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Courier New, Courier, monospace;">The moment my plate was empty, he took it away. Many people of the restaurant and hotel staff in Myanmar do this. I guess they think we appreciate it; that it's some kind of great service, but for us personally, we get really nervous by this behaviour.</span></b></div>
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<span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: Courier New, Courier, monospace;"><b>Although I am not vain during travelling, there is a certain limit to my backpack look. All shinny and new, we took our bikes to explore the hot springs a few miles out of town. Along the way we found a coffee house that also makes churro's and had a quick stop over for these tasteful calorie bombs and a coffee.</b></span></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Courier New, Courier, monospace;">The road to the hotsprings is really terrible. Dusty with many pebbles and rocks. Every time a truck or motorbikes passed, we were eating dust for at least 15 minutes. But we liked it. Ha ha ha..adventure, right? After 50 minutes of heavy sweating we arrived at the hotsprings. The building looks really good, see their website <a href="http://www.hotspringinle.com/" target="_self" title="">here</a>.</span></b></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Courier New, Courier, monospace;">The ladies at the reception were lovely, they let us take a look at the private pool (men and women together, read: the tourist pool) and the separate pools. It looked totally different then what we've expected. It's really small and I think the water in the pools is very dirty. It's not a water flowing kind of pool. The price was just ridiculous: 8$ pp. We were standing there with our mouths open...what? 8$, really? Yes really! The <em>bible</em> quoted 5$, so this fast prices are raising. Ridiculous.</span></b><br />
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<span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: Courier New, Courier, monospace;"><b>We stopped at Min Min (the cocktail bar in town) and had a fresh lime juice. Great for a thirsty throat. We decided to come back for diner. We did, (after freshening up at home) and had a few pina colada's. They are plentiful with rum and they put fresh lime in it too. Wow, for 1.500K a fantastic pina colada. Min Min and his wife run the place and they have a daughter named SoeSoe. Next door of Min Min is a school:</b></span></div>
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<span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: Courier New, Courier, monospace; font-size: medium;"><b><br />
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<b><span style="font-family: Courier New, Courier, monospace;"><span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: 'Courier New';">SoeSoe is more of a boy then a girl, her mother explains to us. At school SoeSoe always stands in row with the guys and she refuses to wear longys (long skirts) and she wears her hair short. SoeSoe wanted to sit on my lap and the rest of the evening she stayed there playing Angry Birds on our iPhones. She was so sweet. We ate a good home made pasta with pesto (we wanted to do this at the restaurant the </span><em>bible</em><span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: 'Courier New';"> suggests, but this place was packed with group tour tourists,..argghhh. After bringing our bikes back to the rental place, walking back hand in hand to our hotel, we looked at each other: HAPPY!</span></span></b></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Courier New, Courier, monospace;">Traveller facts: Make a reservation for a hotel at Inle Lake. This is a serious warning! We never saw so many frustrated travellers with nowhere to go - who really slept in the streets! Hotels are priced way over the top in this town. Certainly not enough value for money, but in this situation, they can ask whatever they want. A shame, but happening! Expect to pay at least 50$ per night (2 persons). Boat - short tour: 15.000K. Long tour all the way to the south: 25.000. We paid Mr. Win 30.000 because he's a guide so we paid a little more for him and the boatman and a full day on the water. A bargain, I say! Hotspings 5$ public bath/8$ semi private bath (read tourist bath). Beer like everywhere 1.800/2.000K. Food very reasonable, most dishes 1.500/2.000K. Cocktails: 1.500K. Home made pasta around 3.500K. Taxi back to Heho airport: 15/18.000. Bikes: 1.000K a day. Entrance fee for Inle Lake 5$.</span></b></div>
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Whatelleshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02243872263855557277noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4157482893926026680.post-52629761053690681072013-01-17T21:25:00.001-08:002014-11-09T01:41:49.613-08:00Pindaya<div>
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<span style="font-family: Courier New, Courier, monospace;"><b>We are in a town called 'Pindaya'. From Heho airport a 2,5 hour drive. After a comfortable flight (with only 1 hour delay, which is such a great achievement if you know how many tourist want to fly these days) and extremely beautiful flight attendants, we arrived at Heho airport at 10am. We didn't book a taxi to Pindaya, we thought to figure this out at the airport. With only two (!) cab drivers showing up at this super tiny airport we </b></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Courier New, Courier, monospace;"><b>*&(+@#$ didn't have much negotiating space. After quit a bit of walking, talking and dealing around we had to go for a 50.000K ride to Pindaya (2,5 hours). We know for a fact that this drive was a few months back about 40.000K, but it is what it is these days. The other option was walking.</b></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Courier New, Courier, monospace;"><b>The road is horrible, but the scenery perfect. There is so much agriculture going on here, which means many small trucks packed with locals wearing colourful clothes, scarfs and tools for working the land. Beautiful. We are back in the (green) nature and we love it.</b></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Courier New, Courier, monospace;"><b>Anyway, </b></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Courier New, Courier, monospace;"><b>If you could see me right now, you would definitely blink a few times. I am sitting in front of an open fire because our room in The Conqueror has it's own fire place that the staf lit at night....oooh yeahhhhh! And that's just for starters. I cannot explain how bizare this bungalow is. For 65$ a night we are in a de luxe bungalow I booked through a travel agency in Yangon called <a href="http://www.royalexclusive.com/" target="_self" title="">Royal Exclusive Travel</a> (tab to open link). Ms. Nar helped me book this place and we were able to pay for two nights with my credit card back in Holland. </b></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Courier New, Courier, monospace;"><b>Let me just show you the pics, because words never can explain this rather special situation we are in right now... (be prepared, we are about to to show off heavily..)</b></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Courier New, Courier, monospace;"><b>After we recuperated, we walked to Shwe Oo Min Natural Cave Pagoda which is a 45 minute walk (uncountable stairs). Set high on a limestone ridge above a lake, this winding complex of natural caves and tunnels is filled to bursting point Buddha images in an astonishing variety of shapes, sizes and materials, many gaudily daubed with gold paint. At the least count, the caves contained more than 8.700 statues. Some left centuries ago by Burmese pilgrims and others newly installed by Buddhist organisations from as far as Singapore, our country and the USA. It took our breath away. It was such an amazing moment when we entered the cave. </b></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Courier New, Courier, monospace;"><b>After a long time we finally found a Buddha donated by Dutch people. We bursted out laughing, among all these huge shinny golden statues, this one was representing Holland:</b></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Courier New, Courier, monospace;"><b>But again, not one picture can capture the intensity of a huge cave filled with so many Buddha images.</b></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Courier New, Courier, monospace;"><b>We feel pretty strange being here. It's such a harsh contrast with the people living next door to our hotel, who only have a well and a thin roof over their heads. They live in dirt and poverty. We actually feel bad and a pretty ashamed when we walk to our hotel. We said to each other: "At least try to enjoy this semi luxurious place because we are here now, it is what it is". I say semi luxurious because everything is dirty, broken or unfinished (but the beds and linen are always fresh and clean). </b></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Courier New, Courier, monospace;"><b>We had a long conversation about this (we see it in all the time in the mid and high end places). Klaas is in architecture and I am into PR and marketing (and I like to clean, hahahaha.) I was wondering, if labour is cheap and you have a dozen of people from your staff walking around doing nothing all day long, why is everything still so dirty and/or broken and unfinished. Klaas said a few wise words: if nobody explains to you how to clean or how to construct a building or finish it properly, then how can you know that something is wrong?<span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: 'Courier New';">(for example our shower tap is actually a tap meant for a bath). </span></b></span></div>
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<span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: Courier New, Courier, monospace;"><b>There is still a long way ahead for Myanmar tourism, which is actually very charming, besides that, isn't this what we want to see and feel on our travels?? And since I love to clean, I can eat my heart out here.</b></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Courier New, Courier, monospace;"><b>This film Klaas made at night when the fire place was in full process (how romantic, right?):</b></span></div>
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<span style="color: #ff9a00;"><span style="font-family: Courier New, Courier, monospace; font-size: x-large;"><b>Day 12: Biking and doing nothing</b></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Courier New, Courier, monospace;"><b><span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969);">Ooh my god...it was so cold last night. I had to put on an extra blanket to keep myself warm. </span><span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: 'Courier New';">Klaas slept very good last night. It felt like being on a ski trip in Switzerland. The beds are extremely comfortable, the big pillows fluffy and the thick colourful blankets warm, but I didn't sleep that well. I guess the Burmese local whiskey and the local red wine were a troublemaker (but it taste sooooo good..). We were very curious how the breakfast would be. We put on our fleeces and went to the restaurant. It was freezing cold there too. The buffet they offer is not much. </span></b></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Courier New, Courier, monospace;"><b><span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: 'Courier New';"><br /></span>
<span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: 'Courier New';">Actually is kind of sad to see how things are organized in this hotel. The choice of the food was minimal and the quality extremely poor. Strange because it's relatively seen a very expensive hotel. Later that morning we saw the manager or owner, who knows, talking to his staff. The girls and boys stood all in line, hands on the back, face down. He sat down in a chair (with a cigarette, kind of Al Capone style with a scary face) and was talking in a very hash negative way to them. We felt bad, just seeing all this. All of a sudden I realized that his might be a government hotel and I hated myself for not checking better.</span></b></span></div>
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<span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: Courier New, Courier, monospace;"><b>So we peddled through town, around the lovely lake and arrived at this wonderful 'Inle Inn hotel'. Wow, this place has a totally different vibe to it, compared to than ours. We asked for a tour and got one from such a sweet guy, who spoke very good English. He really seemed to enjoy his work and talking to us. The hotel, the restaurant and grounds around it are lovely and we decided to spent a lazy morning and lunch here. The internet worked great and we received the messages we needed.</b></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Courier New, Courier, monospace;"><b><span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: 'Courier New';"><br /></span>
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<span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: Courier New, Courier, monospace;"><b>We decided to have dinner together and off we went again. This time to find one of the paper/umbrella 'factories' in town. It took us some time to find them, but that was no punishment. This town, the easy goingness of it, the vibe, the nature: just all so relaxing! When we finally found the place it was again a delight. A fairly old couple showed us extensively how they made paper and umbrella's. </b></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Courier New, Courier, monospace;"><b><span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: 'Courier New';"><br /></span>
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<span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: Courier New, Courier, monospace;"><b>Back in our hotel we took a long hot shower (use it, if it's available) and read a book and drink some of this lovely Myanmar wine. Life is good for us and we say that all the time to each other.</b></span></div>
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<span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: Courier New, Courier, monospace;"><b>That evening we had dinner with Birgit and Nicole at the Inle hotel. They make a fantastic woodfire in the restaurant and the food is good (a bit expensive though). We chatted a lot (so much to learn from each other) and when we left on our bikes and fleeces (cold!!!) we said to each other: "What a great day we had again".</b></span></div>
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<span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: Courier New, Courier, monospace;"><b>Traveller facts: Entrance fee for Pindaya: 2$. Entrance fee for the cave: 3$. Bikes at Golden Cave hotel 3.000K per day. Conqueror Hotel we paid 65$ a night. The Inle Inn has rooms between 65-120$ (but comes with real French breakfast) Meal at Inle Inn about 4/5.000 per dish. Sheet of handmade paper: 1.000K. Taxi to Inle Lake: 50.000K</b></span></div>
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Whatelleshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02243872263855557277noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4157482893926026680.post-61217895375206088092013-01-17T21:21:00.001-08:002014-11-09T01:42:02.864-08:00Bagan (part 2)<div>
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<span style="font-family: Courier New;"><b>After another terrific sleep, we decided to go for a lazy morning. When we walked into the breakfast area we were totally surprised seeing two musicians making music during breakfast time. Made me so happy. What a way to start a day in Bagan! </b></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Courier New;"><b>We run into Rodger & Carol (the Canadian couple we met in Mandalay). They sat down with us and we had a great time exchanging stories. These two friends are retired teachers and hardcore travellers. They both teached kids English for a few years in Thailand. After we said goodbye, I run into Dan -the photographer- who did <em>the balloons over Bagan</em> the morning before.</b></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Courier New;"><b>Imagine the most beautiful temple complex in the world. Picture sunrise and a wine red balloon. Take out your wallet and grab a pristine note of 100 US dollars out of it, and another one and yet another one. Now you are in business! According to Dan it was over the top. He was so thrilled about the whole experience (which includes champagne afterwards). </b></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Courier New;">I looked at Klaas and we decided to do this once we are retired and/or rich. But I am sure it is indeed fantastic, although 300$ makes me kind of nervous. We also met Simon from the UK. He's working in the tourism business. Simon who was <em>a bit under the weather </em>as he says so himself<em>, </em>because of stomach problems. The four of us chatted about the changes Myanmar is going through, how Aung San Suu Kyi is doing and where we've been so far in Myanmar. We all agreed upon the fact that hotel prices are going way over the top and that this might become a problem in the near future. I think Klaas and me still are doing a great job finding the hidden affordable gems (Simon paid 100$ in Yangon for a totally shitty backpack kind of hotel...a hundred dollars..wow!)</span></b></div>
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<span style="font-family: Courier New;"><b>It would be very well possible that this whole <em>speed up the prices</em>, is going to work against a good tourism climate in Myanmar. Actually we only see older (mostly retired and poorly educated) group tourists. For backpackers or budget travellers this country is just way too expensive.</b></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Courier New;"><b>Anyway, we exchanged e-mail addresses because we are all going to Inle lake in a few days, so it would be nice that we all catch up there again.</b></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Courier New';"><b>Around 2pm we decided that it was really time to get back to the temples, not before we had a pit stop at the 'Weather Spoon' for a very tasteful lunch. Highly recommended! We slowly drove towards the Pyathada Paya were we decided to watch the sunset. </b></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Courier New';"><b>We were a bit early and went into a small 'village' nearby the road towards sunrise. The day before we had a chat with some of the girls living there. I gave them some of my hair clips.</b></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Courier New';"><b>They recognised me and showed us around their village were and old lady was spinning thread, colouring it and weaving it into piles of fabric. Klaas took some fantastic pics of people cutting the grass for their animals. We had a beer afterwards and bought one extra for the sunset.</b></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: 'Courier New';"><b>The road to the sunset pagoda is not paved, so we peddled like sweaty pro's, at least we thought we did, and arrived one hour before the big happening! From far away we saw Dan the photographer and his huge camera on tripod standing on top of the temple as a true conqueror. He seemed pleased to see us again. We sat down at the ledge of the terrace and saw fortunately only two tour buses heading towards 'our' temple. </b></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Courier New';"><b>We chatted with a few people and met an old Frenchman who visited Myanmar after being on the blacklist for 13 years! He wrote an article about Myanmar (not even judgemental) that they (government) didn't like, so when he applied for a visa back in 2000, he got a big stamp in it saying 'CANCELLED'. After negotiating with the ambassador of Myanmar in France, the Myanmar government would give him one if he apologised for his writing. Well how can you say sorry for telling the truth? So he did not and ended up at the blacklist for thirteen years! Now Myanmar is changing so much, a lot of people are taken off this list, and this man too. </b></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Courier New';"><b>Well the following few minutes I will not speak, I will just let you enjoy the amazing views!</b></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Courier New;"><b>Beautiful, isn't it? In reality it's even 10 times better, but that sounds so blasé. Sorry!</b></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Courier New;"><b>Professional photographer Lisa Mardell (next to Dan on the picture) shot a true winner pic. Amazing, right? Click <a href="http://www.photographybylisamardell.co.uk/ballooning-over-bagan-myanmar">here.</a></b></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Courier New;"><b>It was part of the game to head back to the hotel (on the bikes of course ...) 'only' one hour to our hotel (!). It was almost dark and yet many sandy roads to conquer,..and practically no light with us or on our bikes. Dan gave us his head light which Klaas put on backwards on his head. With only one working light in front of my bike, we were at least kind of visible in the darkness. I became more and more stressed when darkness fell in far more rapid then I expected. So basically what happens in these kind of situations: I start yelling and shouting at Klaas, because it's all his fault that we will probably end up death in the middle of nowhere. </b></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Courier New;"><b>Klaas gets annoyed by me and makes that VERY clear and then we usually peddle (read: struggle) off on our own, angry (it happens all the time in Amsterdam, we are by the way so used to this ridiculous kind of behaviour). </b></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Courier New';"><b>It wasn't a very responsible thing we did, but we did it, we made it, and afterwards it will be good 'wine and dine' material. Back in the hotel we made up (candles and wine always brings people back together). </b></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Courier New';"><b>We took a quick shower and a fast bite in our hotel (which was by the way of poor quality and not recommendable) because we wanted to check out the pictures we took that afternoon. It was a thrill to see that most pictures basically were a good representation of what we saw with our own eyes. We are so happy that we took our 'big' Nikon camera with us. Klaas was so proud of his achievements and me too. Bagan is just pure magic and we loved every minute in this cute, friendly and serene town.</b></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Courier New';"><b>Time to go to bed. The alarm for the next morning points out 6am. I hope I don't break a glass before the crickets start to chant. That would really spoil my day :-) (again)</b></span></div>
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Whatelleshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02243872263855557277noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4157482893926026680.post-79006743115943920722013-01-15T22:45:00.002-08:002014-11-09T01:42:25.557-08:00Bagan<div>
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<span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: Courier New, Courier, monospace;"><b>Maybe I was a bit grumpy (because of this 5am alarm) but when the guy of the reception asked met to pay 2$ because I accidentally broke a small water glass in our room, I was really angry. For starters I have to pay for it and secondly that they demand an astronomical amount of money (it was a ten dollar cent kind of glass). If this was a budget hotel, okay, but hey this hotel cost a fair amount of money. I tried to reason with him, but that didn't work at all. He kept repeating <i>the glass cost 2$, the glass cost 2$</i>. At that moment I realised that service and Myanmar still have a long way to go. Klaas joined me at the reception, asked what the problem was and gave the guy 2$. As a result of that I didn't speak with Klaas for the next couple of hours:-)</b></span><br />
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<span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: Courier New, Courier, monospace;"><b>The taxi guy showed up in time, also very grumpy. Maybe he broke a glass too this morning and was yelled to by his wife? Who knows.. He didn't help us with our luggage and all the way to the jetty he listened to a Burmese stand up comedy version of Eddy Murphy, really really loud. The ride didn't take more then ten minutes and when we arrived at the jetty, he didn't do anything. I never want people to help me with my luggage, but this guy didn't even offer. We had to take out our luggage ourselves (we paid the guy plentiful for a ride of ten minutes: 4$). This was the first Burmese guy I really didn't like. </b></span><br />
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<span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: 'Courier New';"><span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: 'Courier New';"><span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: 'Courier New';"><span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: 'Courier New';"><span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: 'Courier New';"><span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: 'Courier New';"><span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: 'Courier New';"><span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: 'Courier New';"><br /></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></b></span></span></span></span></span><br />
<span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: 'Courier New';"><span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: 'Courier New';"><span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: 'Courier New';"><span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: 'Courier New';"><span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: 'Courier New';"><span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: 'Courier New';"><span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: 'Courier New';"><span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: 'Courier New';"><span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: 'Courier New';"><span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: 'Courier New';"><span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: 'Courier New';"><span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: 'Courier New';"><span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: Courier New, Courier, monospace;"><b>It was still dark when we entered the Malika 2. A small elegant boat with rotan chairs on deck and even a plant for decoration. It felt like being on a touristy German Moezel river cruise (80% of the passengers were wearing a silly hat over their grey hair. I am so surprised, where are all the 30/40 year olds? I remember from eight years ago that I hardly saw any grandpa's and mothers. Is Myanmar's government advertising heavily in French, Scandinavian and American senior magazines or so?</b></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span><br />
<span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: 'Courier New';"><span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: 'Courier New';"><span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: 'Courier New';"><span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: 'Courier New';"><span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: 'Courier New';"><span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: 'Courier New';"><span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: 'Courier New';"><span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: 'Courier New';"><span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: 'Courier New';"><span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: 'Courier New';"><span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: 'Courier New';"><span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: 'Courier New';"><span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: Courier New, Courier, monospace;"><b><br /></b></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></div>
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<span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: 'Courier New';"><span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: 'Courier New';"><span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: 'Courier New';"><span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: 'Courier New';"><span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: 'Courier New';"><span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: 'Courier New';"><span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: 'Courier New';"><span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: Courier New, Courier, monospace;"><b><br />
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<span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: 'Courier New';"><span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: 'Courier New';"><span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: 'Courier New';"><span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: 'Courier New';"><span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: 'Courier New';"><span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: 'Courier New';"><span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: Courier New, Courier, monospace;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjoRDmyq7kZhyphenhyphenX8VU67S6m-4KEoMtP1rC_UOts6Ugv2LKv8oFS7Xqji2bsO0Eq9nHkjP0VCkOO9nzphjC1QtLcj129bEETGZAwpLg9NQuPKfkiS6QFmBv1hGrfa6cS46KtjNRleE2h2y4/s300/Photo%25252016%252520jan.%2525202013%25252011%25253A06.jpg" target="_blank"><b><img alt="" class="alignnone" height="200" id="blogsy-1359174410594.982" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjoRDmyq7kZhyphenhyphenX8VU67S6m-4KEoMtP1rC_UOts6Ugv2LKv8oFS7Xqji2bsO0Eq9nHkjP0VCkOO9nzphjC1QtLcj129bEETGZAwpLg9NQuPKfkiS6QFmBv1hGrfa6cS46KtjNRleE2h2y4/s300/Photo%25252016%252520jan.%2525202013%25252011%25253A06.jpg" width="300" /></b></a></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></div>
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<span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: 'Courier New';"><span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: 'Courier New';"><span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: 'Courier New';"><span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: Courier New, Courier, monospace;"><b><span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: 'Courier New';"><span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: 'Courier New';"><span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: 'Courier New';"><span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969);"><br /></span></span></span></span>
<span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: 'Courier New';"><span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: 'Courier New';"><span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: 'Courier New';"><span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: 'Courier New';"><span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: 'Courier New';"><span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: 'Courier New';"><span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: 'Courier New';"><span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969);">A few minutes before 7am we left. As soon as The Malikha reached full speed, free thee, coffee and toast was being served. It was still really cold on deck. We managed to get the best two seats outside, but the first few hours we were going to suffer. Fortunately I was wise enough to take two blankets out of my backpack for a bit of warmth. Ten hours on a boat is a pretty long time and the scenery is sadly enough not spectacular at all. I was pretty disappointed in this. So I read a great book (Glow-Sandor Marai) and worked on my blog. At noon the crew served noodles with vegetables and fried egg for 3.000K. which tasted great for a boat meal certainly with a Mandalay beer on the side.</span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></b></span></span></span></span><br />
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<span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: 'Courier New';"><span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: 'Courier New';"><span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: 'Courier New';"><span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: 'Courier New';"><span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: 'Courier New';"><span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: 'Courier New';"><span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: 'Courier New';"><span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: Courier New, Courier, monospace;"><b>The boat arrived at 4.30pm and we weren't prepared for the whole hassle when we off loaded ourselves and our luggage. I guess the pictures tell you enough. Everybody tried to sell us something and offered taxi rides into town. Our guesthouse promised us to pick us up.</b></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></div>
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<span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: 'Courier New';"><span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: 'Courier New';"><span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: 'Courier New';"><span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: 'Courier New';"><span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: 'Courier New';"><span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: 'Courier New';"><span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: Courier New, Courier, monospace;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzRlm7gSPUd0VdytFEKmogxihZTlaP_v02EVs8yaMjJLmcFcWpQqKzBbArU1NYROchC0v0STug-WTKISbsT_1ApdkxYNNcOeKgodDMPIbD_UcXHefds7vUb1a9E4FO9BVcUooF8uJCwbA/s1600/Photo%25252014%252520jan.%2525202013%25252016%25253A42.jpg" target="_blank"><b><img alt="" class="alignnone" height="225" id="blogsy-1359174410676.7087" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzRlm7gSPUd0VdytFEKmogxihZTlaP_v02EVs8yaMjJLmcFcWpQqKzBbArU1NYROchC0v0STug-WTKISbsT_1ApdkxYNNcOeKgodDMPIbD_UcXHefds7vUb1a9E4FO9BVcUooF8uJCwbA/s300/Photo%25252014%252520jan.%2525202013%25252016%25253A42.jpg" width="300" /></b></a></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></div>
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<span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: 'Courier New';"><span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: 'Courier New';"><span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: 'Courier New';"><span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: 'Courier New';"><span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: 'Courier New';"><span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: 'Courier New';"><span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: 'Courier New';"><span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: Courier New, Courier, monospace;"><b><br />
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<span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: 'Courier New';"><span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: 'Courier New';"><span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: 'Courier New';"><span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: 'Courier New';"><span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: 'Courier New';"><span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: 'Courier New';"><span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: 'Courier New';"><span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: Courier New, Courier, monospace;"><b> Unfortunately they didn't show up and we had to pick somebody from the hysteric crowd of yelling men. All of a sudden an older man asked us if we were going to the Thante hotel in Nyaung U. 'YES!', we replied. So we shared a taxi with a lovely couple from the French speaking part of Canada. They were probably retired and travelling on their own; that's the way I like it! After stopping at 'customs' to pay the 10$ Bagan fee (which is really cheap for all these beautiful pagoda's) we arrived at the Thante hotel in a minute or five. We paid 2.000K each for the ride. </b></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></div>
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<span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: 'Courier New';"><span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: 'Courier New';"><span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: 'Courier New';"><span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: 'Courier New';"><span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: 'Courier New';"><span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: 'Courier New';"><span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: 'Courier New';"><span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: Courier New, Courier, monospace;"><b><br />
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<span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: 'Courier New';"><span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: 'Courier New';"><span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: 'Courier New';"><span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: 'Courier New';"><span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: 'Courier New';"><span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: 'Courier New';"><span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: 'Courier New';"><span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: Courier New, Courier, monospace;"><b>The Thante hotel is lovely. It has a swimming pool with a dozen of bungalows placed around it. They try to maintain a garden but in this climate with such a dusty (I think very poor) soil, it's practically impossible. Our bungalow turns out to be huge and comfortable with a wooden floor, a nice porch and a bath. We felt straight away very much at home.</b></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></div>
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<span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: 'Courier New';"><span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: 'Courier New';"><span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: 'Courier New';"><span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: 'Courier New';"><span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: 'Courier New';"><span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: 'Courier New';"><span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: 'Courier New';"><span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: Courier New, Courier, monospace;"><b><br />
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<span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: 'Courier New';"><span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: 'Courier New';"><span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: 'Courier New';"><span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: 'Courier New';"><span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: 'Courier New';"><span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: 'Courier New';"><span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: 'Courier New';"><span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: Courier New, Courier, monospace;"><b>After 6pm it's getting really chilly and you need to wear a fleece or some kind of warm jumper. We went into town and decided to rent bikes for the next two days. The bikes looked a lot better then seven years ago when I visited Bagan. We choose two bikes (actually they are really comfortable) and drove a few times back and forth in the street with all the restaurants. By the way, we didn't pay any deposit for the bikes; it works with trust! Tried to imagine how that could work in Amsterdam...NOT!</b></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span><br />
<span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: 'Courier New';"><span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: 'Courier New';"><span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: 'Courier New';"><span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: Courier New, Courier, monospace;"><b><span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: 'Courier New';"><span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: 'Courier New';"><span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: 'Courier New';"><span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969);"><br /></span></span></span></span>
<span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: 'Courier New';"><span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: 'Courier New';"><span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: 'Courier New';"><span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: 'Courier New';"><span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: 'Courier New';"><span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: 'Courier New';"><span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: 'Courier New';"><span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969);">We choose to sit down at 'Aroma 2' an Indian place. We had some chappati's, rice, chicken curry and vegetable curry.</span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></b></span></span></span></span></div>
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<span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: 'Courier New';"><span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: 'Courier New';"><span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: 'Courier New';"><span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: 'Courier New';"><span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: 'Courier New';"><span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: 'Courier New';"><span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: 'Courier New';"><span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: Courier New, Courier, monospace;"><b><br />
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<span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: 'Courier New';"><span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: 'Courier New';"><span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: 'Courier New';"><span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: 'Courier New';"><span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: 'Courier New';"><span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: 'Courier New';"><span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: Courier New, Courier, monospace;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0jI1zWepJNYK2GaVuu1_AOCQiUIsa1nkqOFi9WiXF7ehhMFlZ8fdR0IWXjoqQxrTxWiOouBpdVC-OstI3usW3w-ApDZMwL3dULKRbUGsvZCTjptJFH6RvjmvoQdGfpE13VHNzpZr2HFE/s1600/Photo%25252014%252520jan.%2525202013%25252019%25253A24.jpg" style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.296875);" target="_blank"><b><img alt="" class="alignnone" height="172" id="blogsy-1359174410628.8728" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0jI1zWepJNYK2GaVuu1_AOCQiUIsa1nkqOFi9WiXF7ehhMFlZ8fdR0IWXjoqQxrTxWiOouBpdVC-OstI3usW3w-ApDZMwL3dULKRbUGsvZCTjptJFH6RvjmvoQdGfpE13VHNzpZr2HFE/s300/Photo%25252014%252520jan.%2525202013%25252019%25253A24.jpg" width="300" /></b></a></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></div>
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<span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: 'Courier New';"><span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: 'Courier New';"><span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: 'Courier New';"><span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: 'Courier New';"><span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: 'Courier New';"><span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: Courier New, Courier, monospace;"><b><br />
</b></span></span></span></span></span></span></div>
<div>
<span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: 'Courier New';"><span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: 'Courier New';"><span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: 'Courier New';"><span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: 'Courier New';"><span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: 'Courier New';"><span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: 'Courier New';"><span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: Courier New, Courier, monospace;"><b> </b></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></div>
<div>
<span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: 'Courier New';"><span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: 'Courier New';"><span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: 'Courier New';"><span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: 'Courier New';"><span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: 'Courier New';"><span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: 'Courier New';"><span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: 'Courier New';"><span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: Courier New, Courier, monospace;"><b>All served on a banana leaf (I like!). I wasn't impressed by the food at all. It was the worst meal since I was in Myanmar. Their pay off is 'no good-no pay, but I guess only ass holes will make use of this gesture.</b></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></div>
<div>
<span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: 'Courier New';"><span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: 'Courier New';"><span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: 'Courier New';"><span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: 'Courier New';"><span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: 'Courier New';"><span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: 'Courier New';"><span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: 'Courier New';"><span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: Courier New, Courier, monospace;"><b>We were cold and tired so we went to bed early. Not a punishment to sleep in these beds with thick duvets. We slept like babies.</b></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Courier New, Courier, monospace;"><br /></span></b>
<b><span style="font-family: Courier New, Courier, monospace;"><br /></span></b></div>
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<div style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969);">
<span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: 'Courier New';"><span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: 'Courier New';"><span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: 'Courier New';"><span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: Courier New, Courier, monospace;"><b>
<span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: 'Courier New';"><span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: 'Courier New';"><span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: 'Courier New';"><span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: 'Courier New';"><span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: 'Courier New';"><span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: 'Courier New';"><span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: 'Courier New';"><span style="font-size: x-large;"><span style="color: #ff9a00;">Day 9: Temples, Pagoda's, Ruines</span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></b></span></span></span></span></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Courier New, Courier, monospace;"><br />
The next morning we were extremely surprised when we saw the breakfast buffet. What a feast! Three different kind of fresh melon juices, fresh pancakes, an egg station, all kind of fruits (even strawberry's!) and a lot of pastry (they have a bakery attached to the hotel). We had a blast and a good filled stomach for a day of heavy biking and <em>templing.</em></span></b></div>
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<span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: 'Courier New';"><span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: 'Courier New';"><span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: 'Courier New';"><span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: 'Courier New';"><span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: 'Courier New';"><span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: 'Courier New';"><span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: 'Courier New';"><span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: Courier New, Courier, monospace;"><em><b><br />
</b></em></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></div>
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<span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: 'Courier New';"><span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: 'Courier New';"><span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: 'Courier New';"><span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: 'Courier New';"><span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: 'Courier New';"><span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: 'Courier New';"><span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: 'Courier New';"><span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: Courier New, Courier, monospace;"><em><b><br />
</b></em></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></div>
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<span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: 'Courier New';"><span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: 'Courier New';"><span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: 'Courier New';"><span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: 'Courier New';"><span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: 'Courier New';"><span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: 'Courier New';"><span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: Courier New, Courier, monospace;"><b><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjuMBe1CUGkqP8SpOiBrTVHVPRuZOAR02KeIOcr45ohPA4P8d8lQFrgbHrOgtqvHMdB43dSkdc0Ds8toEVrottFfoJKAaZ8c6ivA2_Q-xDSD3RqGXqt0KMwK4i_IWQ9A5joLX36ZlOhIZ8/s1600/Photo%25252015%252520jan.%2525202013%25252010%25253A11.jpg" style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.296875);" target="_blank"><img alt="" class="alignnone" height="225" id="blogsy-1359174410641.4744" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjuMBe1CUGkqP8SpOiBrTVHVPRuZOAR02KeIOcr45ohPA4P8d8lQFrgbHrOgtqvHMdB43dSkdc0Ds8toEVrottFfoJKAaZ8c6ivA2_Q-xDSD3RqGXqt0KMwK4i_IWQ9A5joLX36ZlOhIZ8/s300/Photo%25252015%252520jan.%2525202013%25252010%25253A11.jpg" width="300" /></a><span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969);"><em><br />
</em></span></b></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></div>
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<span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: 'Courier New';"><span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: 'Courier New';"><span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: 'Courier New';"><span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: 'Courier New';"><span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: 'Courier New';"><span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: 'Courier New';"><span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: 'Courier New';"><span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: Courier New, Courier, monospace;"><em><b><br />
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<span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: 'Courier New';"><span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: 'Courier New';"><span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: 'Courier New';"><span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: Courier New, Courier, monospace;"><b><span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: 'Courier New';"><span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: 'Courier New';"><span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: 'Courier New';"><span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969);"><br /></span></span></span></span>
<span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: 'Courier New';"><span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: 'Courier New';"><span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: 'Courier New';"><span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: 'Courier New';"><span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: 'Courier New';"><span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: 'Courier New';"><span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: 'Courier New';"><span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969);">We got a free very detailed map of the whole Bagan area from our hotel reception. </span><span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: 'Courier New';">We decided to go over the whole place just biking around and see the outside and go into the pagoda's the next day. So we did. It was just great. For Klaas it was spectacular because it was his first time. We had lunch in New Bagan at at '<i>the King Si Thu'</i>, next to the river. A fancy (expensive) place but great for a moment of peace, shadow and quietness. I ordered vegetable tempura and Klaas noodles, both were very tasteful.</span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></b></span></span></span></span><br />
<span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: 'Courier New';"><span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: 'Courier New';"><span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: 'Courier New';"><span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: 'Courier New';"><span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: 'Courier New';"><span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: 'Courier New';"><span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: 'Courier New';"><span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: Courier New, Courier, monospace;"><b><br /></b></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></div>
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<span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: 'Courier New';"><span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: 'Courier New';"><span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: 'Courier New';"><span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: 'Courier New';"><span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: 'Courier New';"><span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: 'Courier New';"><span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: Courier New, Courier, monospace;"><b>After lunch we road on and actually stopped very soon again because we saw a lovely spot called 'The Black Rose' where we had another beer and a nice chat with two Swiss guys. It's so nice to exchange tips and tricks. The rest of the afternoon we explored more parts of this beautiful serene place. Klaas discovered our -soon to be- own temple. </b></span></span></span></span></span></span></span><br />
<span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: 'Courier New';"><span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: 'Courier New';"><span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: 'Courier New';"><span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: Courier New, Courier, monospace;"><b><span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: 'Courier New';"><span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: 'Courier New';"><span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: 'Courier New';"><br /></span></span></span>
<span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: 'Courier New';"><span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: 'Courier New';"><span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: 'Courier New';"><span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: 'Courier New';"><span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: 'Courier New';"><span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: 'Courier New';"><span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: 'Courier New';">There was nobody there. We looked for a small entry and found one. We could climb up quit a bit through narrow corridors with torches in our hands. When we came out: WOW! We arrived at the top (don't ask us how..) and had a magnificent view over the whole area. Hundreds of temples. Not one picture can do justice to this amazing view. This was going to be our sunset place for tomorrow (to avoid the whole big panic attack tourist sunset Bagan exodus at the main temple). Klaas stayed a bit longer and I took my bike and headed back to the hotel for a afternoon swim (coldddd!!!!!). </span></span></span></span></span></span></span></b></span></span></span></span></div>
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<span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: 'Courier New';"><span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: 'Courier New';"><span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: 'Courier New';"><span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: 'Courier New';"><span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: 'Courier New';"><span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: 'Courier New';"><span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: Courier New, Courier, monospace;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhyfwEVG-mNEyg5IH-2LUtLqXyJ2G6sRXQwZEHmPf88VhSxup790ufXcNDD78lL8Rda1CMpd7136VluBXUo3Qz-A1c9SvQoOpmsCwTL0K_EYLWANRMOPoZgHlQMNgwuFZe0JZ1IxlhB2cU/s449/Photo%25252016%252520jan.%2525202013%25252010%25253A56.jpg" target="_blank"><b><img alt="" class="alignnone" height="449" id="blogsy-1359174410659.5977" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhyfwEVG-mNEyg5IH-2LUtLqXyJ2G6sRXQwZEHmPf88VhSxup790ufXcNDD78lL8Rda1CMpd7136VluBXUo3Qz-A1c9SvQoOpmsCwTL0K_EYLWANRMOPoZgHlQMNgwuFZe0JZ1IxlhB2cU/s300/Photo%25252016%252520jan.%2525202013%25252010%25253A56.jpg" width="300" /></b></a></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></div>
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<span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: 'Courier New';"><span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: 'Courier New';"><span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: 'Courier New';"><span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: 'Courier New';"><span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: 'Courier New';"><span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: 'Courier New';"><span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: Courier New, Courier, monospace;"><b>Klaas came back (he didn't get lost or stayed the night over because he was in for a nightly adventure). He jumped in the pool too but in and out because it was soooo cold. We didn't realize this at all. After 6pm you defintitely have to wear a jumper. It seems very cold for this time of year.</b></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></div>
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<span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: 'Courier New';"><span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: 'Courier New';"><span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: 'Courier New';"><span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: 'Courier New';"><span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: 'Courier New';"><span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: 'Courier New';"><span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: Courier New, Courier, monospace;"><b>The day before, I bought a bottle of South African wine at the local liquor store for 6.500K. I led some candles on the porch and we sat down for a romantic moment before going for dinner :-)</b></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></div>
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Whatelleshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02243872263855557277noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4157482893926026680.post-49775448357993666682013-01-15T20:59:00.001-08:002014-11-09T01:42:51.124-08:00Mandalay part 2<div>
<b><span style="color: #ff9a00; font-family: 'Courier New';"><span style="font-size: x-large;">Day 7 Mandalay</span></span><span style="color: #ff9a00; font-family: 'Courier New'; font-size: large;">(continuation) </span></b><br />
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<span style="font-family: 'Courier New';">After the lunch and hike we slowly made our way towards the U-Bein's bridge. Along the way we chatted a lot. I asked Lamyou many things, like female rights, do women work, drink alcohol, what about sex before marriage, gay people exception, and a lot about the government and the change Myanmar is going through. He seemed to enjoy all my questions and answered me in detail. I told him about my country and especially about equality between men and women. He laughed really hard when I told him that I am the boss in our household and that Klaas has nothing to say. Klaas on his turn, told him that I have a tendency to make stories up ;-) I had some pics on my phone from Amsterdam in wintertime (ice skating on the canals) which they liked a lot.</span></b></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Courier New';"><b>Around 4pm we arrived at the U-Bein's bridge where many vendors try to make a living by selling drinks, paintings and clothing. The bridge is 1.2 km long and entirely made of teak wood. We walked all he way to the other side (on the bridge we saw many Burmese youngsters (hipsters we probably would call them in Holland) flirting with each other and posing like models. So cute. </b></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Courier New';"><b>When we reached the other side we were so incredibly lucky to witness the inauguration of children soon to become monks. It was almost too much to take in and I feel sorry that we didn't have a guide with us to explain the whole process.</b></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Courier New;"><b>What we saw were countless horses with young boys all dressed up. The best looking horses in front and towards the end more and more poor looking horses (does this say anything about the status of the parents? Or are these children all orphans?). The whole ritual was accompanied by super loud music coming out of a fantastic car. The pics will show you how fantastic. </b></span></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: 'Courier New';">After the horses, the girls came along on colourful ox carts. They looked amazing. </span><span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: 'Courier New';">Almost liked photoshoped pictures</span><span style="font-family: 'Courier New';">. Faces powdered like marble, with eye shadow, lipstick and blush. All dressed in golden clothing with a lot of glamour and glitter. It was such an amazing happening. </span></b></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Courier New';"><b>Some video images:</b></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Courier New';"><b>We talked to a Burmese (in French) guide for a brief moment and he explained tous that the children will shave off their hair after the parade and put on their monk clothes. "That's why they look all so unhappy", I replied. The guide says that they are not unhappy, in contrary, they are extremely proud. Klaas and me didn't see it that way at all. We both had the idea that many of the children looked sad and scared. We discussed this over a beer near the lake. A cool place to hang around for a while.</b></span></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: 'Courier New';">We wanted to take the boat back to the other side a bit before sunset. Maybe we are very childish, but we want to avoid the whole </span><em style="font-family: 'Courier New';">sunset tourist panic attack</em><span style="font-family: 'Courier New';"> around photo genetic places. Watching the sunset on a boat near the U-Beins's bridge is such a thing. Busloads of (elderly) tourists take over the lake and we don't want to be part of this. So we took a boat a bit earlier and were all alone on the lake. Truly magnificent.</span></b></div>
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<span style="font-family: Courier New;">Lamyou and his brother were waiting for us and we asked them to make a quick stop at the Diamond Center supermarket before bringing us back to our hotel. We bought all kinds of fresh dim sums, things on a stick and a bottle of Italian red wine. We were so tired and dirty that spending an evening in our hotel room seemed the best idea. After they dropped us off at our hotel it was time to say goodbye to to Lamyou and his brother. We had an unforgettable day and they said they liked our company and spirit too. I promised Lamyou to promote him on Tripadvisor because he deserves it so much. </span></b></div>
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<span style="font-family: Courier New;">That evening we washed our clothes, (pitch black water came off) and we had some throat issues. I guess that all the inhabitants of Mandalay must suffer from bronchial tube diseases as a result of the heavy pollution in town. </span></b></div>
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<span style="font-family: Courier New;"><i>After I got back home, I saw that Nicole, A German woman we met in Myanmar, took our advise and went also 'trekking' with Lamyou. Here is her Facebook comment:</i></span></b><br />
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<span style="font-family: Courier New;">Traveller facts: Lamyou as a guide on this motorbike was only 12.000K pp. for the whole day. I think that's very cheap. I would not be surprised if he raises his price a bit in the near future. We had a local lunch for four with beer cost us 10.000K. Boat @ U-Bein's for one way was 4.000K. The Dim Sum for 2 persons was about 1.200K. A bottle of Italian wine 4.500K (a bargain).</span></b></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Courier New';">The next morning we took it easy. Around 11am we went to the local market Zeigyo. I am an addict for local markets and according to Susies report on Tripdvisor it was one of the best markets she visited in Asia. I was so curious. The market was inside a huge concrete building with three or four floors all packed with vendors.</span></b><br />
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<span style="font-family: 'Courier New';"><b>How many in total, maybe more then a thousand! We bought several gimmicks for the kids (hair clips and iron hangers for the guys). I also bought a cute Myanmar dress for my sister's daughter. I cannot wait to see her wear it. We spent quit some time at the market and we loved every second of it. Not many tourists come here so we were kind of an attraction. We had lots of fun and many chats.</b></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Courier New';"><b>For lunch we went to a Thai place called 'Rainforest' opposite of Marie Min. Before that we rented a bike. Dutch people are very used to riding bikes, so we drove away from the rental place as pro's. Lunch was okay, the Pad Thai was the worst I ever had, but the deep fried vegetable tempura was delicious. The place was serene, quiet, great to unwind and ...oooh yes, pretty fast internet access. We had a couple of beers while I worked on my blog.</b></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Courier New;"><b>I felt like taking a nap after the beers, but Klaas encouraged me to go with him to the Mandalay Hill. After some negotiating, I agreed to join him and we went our way to the <em>45 minutes bare foot stair climbing tour</em>. During this exhausting climb, we met a few Dutch people who are travelling with a Dutch organisation called 'Shoestring'. They were impressed that we do the whole trip in Myanmar on our own. They seemed to think that such a thing is not possible in Myanmar. </b></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Courier New;">Sometimes I wonder how people prepare themselves for certain trips (or what travel organisations tell their clients..) Anyways, around the stairs much life was going on. Whole households built simple huts, bought a fridge and started a business selling drinks and awful(plastic)souvenirs. They were not pushy in any way to sell us their stuff. I hope it will stay like this when more and more tourist come to see Myanmar. </span></b></div>
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<span style="font-family: Courier New;">The view at the top was amazing but the air was not really clear because of the smog. It was kind of hazy so our pictures don't do justice to the true beauty of the views.</span></b><br />
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<span style="font-family: Courier New;">Back on solid ground, we took our bikes and drove back to the Diamond supermarket. We didn't feel like eating out, so we bought, like the day before, wine and same same but different dim sums. It was also time to pack our backpacks; a boat trip to Bagan will be our next move. Klaas his cricket alarm will wake us up t</span><span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); font-family: 'Courier New';">omorrow at 5am (no kidding!)</span><span style="font-family: 'Courier New';">. We pre-booked a taxi who will bring us to the jetty at 6am. God I hate early mornings.</span></b><br />
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Whatelleshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02243872263855557277noreply@blogger.com6tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4157482893926026680.post-26336866779136746582013-01-10T18:29:00.000-08:002013-02-12T02:47:04.658-08:00Mandalay<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;">
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<span style="font-family: Courier New;">For easy going reasons (sometimes you just have to except that things not always go the way you like) we had a French toast and a coffee in our hotel before checking out.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Courier New';">We tried to book our last night in Yangon (in 3,5 weeks time) in our hotel, but that was easier said then done. When we wanted to do a down payment the ladies from the reception desk told us they didn't know the price for the room in February yet. To cut a long story short, after a lot of discussion the monkey came out of the sleeve (Dutch expression), they wanted to raise the prices in February, but I assume they did not dare to tell us. That's how it goes right now in Myanmar,...prices rise almost monthly. Heavily!</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Courier New';">We took a flight from Yangon airport to Mandalay and on board we got a refreshment towel, drinks, coffee and a lunchbox filled with a cheese croissant and a brownie (45 minutes flight). Not to forget the immense beautiful flight attendants, right Klaas? It went all so smooth.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Courier New';">That I cannot say about our taxi drive from the airport to the Mandaly City Hotel. We were prepared for a hassle on the airport, but this was just, well let's call it a slapstick. Briefly: there was 3 of us, some cool dude from California joined us. After Klaas yelled towards 14 screaming taxi drivers 'SHUT UP', he was able to negotiate a price for the 35 km ride. It took him quite some time but after a firm handshake the deal was made: 7.000K. We went to a decent looking van BUT when we thought we were leaving, six bags and five persons also bought a seat in our van. After 15 minutes pushing and pulling (in the meantime about six guys joined our taxi driver)they figured out that it didn't fit (understatement). We were all upset and felt misled and demanded a better solution, but they just did NOT give in. So we ended up paying another 3.000K and the other party 5.000K for 2 private cars. I am learning a bit Burmese these days and I could not resist to mention 'far too expensive' in Burmese about 25 times.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Courier New;">We arrived in the Mandalay City Hotel after a peaceful ride. The hotel is really not a flashpacker hangout, but rather a group tourist kind of place). I found that a bit shameful but I have to be honest as well, the room is fantastic and the swimming pool an extravagance. We are enjoying the quietness and cleanness a lot.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Courier New;">Straight after unpacking we went into town...well town..you mean smoggy town? My god, there is some heavy traffic going on here. It's so dirty, smelly and busy but there is something to it. We went for a cold appetiser to the Ayeyarwady hotel rooftop bar, near the,.. indeed Ayeyarwady river. WOW what a great place to unwind and relax for a bit. And to make it all up for the shitty taxi price, we did not have to pay for our cocktails since it was happy hour. Well, lucky us: rooftop, cocktail, peanuts, amazing view, sunset and some fantastic noodles to finish it off.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Courier New';">We took two motorbikes back to our hotel. What an experience. You hav to know that most of these motorbike guys chew the beetle nut all day long, which makes them pretty stoned, then they haves us in heavy traffic on their motorbikes. Klaas got completely crazy. He couldn't stop filming the whole ride. Actually it was kind of cool! And we made it back in one piece. Actually we think they drive super safe and not too fast like these idiots do in Amsterdam. </span><span style="font-family: 'Courier New';">I say a great first day in Mandalay!</span></div>
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<strong style="font-family: 'Courier New';">Traveller facts: Booking a flight within Mynmar is till now only possible through an agent in Myanmar. Flights cost around 80-140$, depending on the distance. Flight times change all the time, because there are not enough pilots, plains etc. But in return you get a beautiful handwritten ticket.</strong></div>
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<span style="font-family: Courier New;"><strong>From Mandaly airport to town expect to pay 10.000K per taxi. It's quit a long drive. Negotiating seems possible, but in the end they just fooled you. Happy Hour in The Ayeyarwady hotel between: 5.30-6.30 pm</strong></span></div>
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<span style="color: #ff9a00; font-family: Courier New; font-size: x-large;"><strong>Day 5: Mandalay - Taxi...taxiiiiii?</strong></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Courier New;">We slept like an ox (Dutch for great night sleep) and went for breakfast at 8.15 am. New hotel, new chances. It was a buffet with fruit, cereals and good coffee so no complaints on my behalf what so ever. We decided to take the afternoon off til 12.30 to hang out around the pool. Actually I used this time to get my first travel reports online. I found a window of opportunity: all the tourists were gone, nobody using the wifi, so I was finally able to upload my blog. Hallelujah! It's becoming some kind of obsession which I really am ashamed of. The pool was great. Nobody there, the water crystal clear and the garden surrounding the pool an oasis,..mmmmm! Around 1pm we decided to take a walk to one of the restaurants mentioned in the bible; 'Too Too'. We also checked out BBB but it felt kind of awkward to sit with ONLY blondish travellers.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Courier New;">'Too Too' has delicious cheap food and after paying 7.000K we decided to take a cab to the Mandalay Hill. Uuuuh what did you say, a cab? Well after 25 minutes we called it a day and walked all the way back to town to find a bicycle outlet to rent a bike. NO TAXI TO BE FOUND. Crazy after Yangon where taxi after taxi turns up. Strange how different two big cities can be!</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Courier New;">We arrived at a bike rental place and started to talk to the brother of the lady who runs it. He turned out to be a funny guy who speaks practically fluent English. We were intrigued! We gave him several options for our itinerary the next day and within 5 minutes talking to each other we shook hands. Tomorrow @ 8.30am Hla Myo (say: Lámyou) and his brother will guide us, on the back of their motorbikes, to the U-Bein's bridge and the opposite side, Sagaing. Total damage: 24.000K. I look forward to this trip a lot because I love to be on a motorbike and after reading the report of Tripavisor's contributor Susie st Auswel(it was one of here highlights in Myanmar), I feel very good about it all. Hopefully we will leave the noise and the dirt (what comes out of my noise every evening here is not funny).</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Courier New';">We left Lámyou and went on our way to the Gold Pounders Workshop where they make sheets of gold-leaf. They use it to make, for example, shining Buddha images. This is not an easy task....it's hours and hours work by hand done by muscle-bound gold-beaters who hammer out in an insistent, thumping rhythm. It was okay, and truly amazing how much work it is to get a thin leaf of gold, but all together it was not taking my breath away or something.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Courier New;">And then it happened....Klaas' tummy was all of a sudden totally upset. He straight took a motorbike back to the hotel and I went into 'town' to buy myself an extra pair of long trousers. I ended up in a fancy upscale warehouse (Diamond Center) with an enormous supermarket @-1 level. I love supermarkets abroad so I run into it and had the time of my life. Actually I was so surprised, it felt like I was in a big French supermarket in the 70ies (but with a cell phone dept.)It was all there. I bought a ridiculous pair of fake Adidas pants (only 2 stripes and 1 pocket) for only 4.000K. Just what I need for a day on the motorbike tomorrow.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Courier New;">Back home Klaas looked a lot better. Big white chairs sometimes just do the trick. For dinner we decided to go to an European kind of place for burgers. Hell why not? I just do not want to fool around with my lover's stomach. I know what trouble that can cause. We went to the V Café and had great french fries and a giant beefburger. Good unhealthy food that will hopefully kill all the bad bugs! We met a lovely couple from Canada and had again an interesting conversation about a few aspects of life (the guy knew a Dutch island called 'Terschelling' very well and he could sing a 'Willeke Alberti song -ik hou van jou'-). That wasn't the only connection with my country, Holland, that evening. I was stunned when I saw a promo on television (V Bar has a lot of flat screens) saying that later on that evening the movie 'The Heineken Kidnapping' would be aired. WHAT????? No way. A Dutch movie (also spoken in Dutch) on Burmese television? Unfortunately we do not have this channel on our hotel television so I can't proof it.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Courier New;"><strong>Traveller facts: 55$ for the Mandalay City Hotel is a bargain. The beds and the rooms are very comfortable and the pool and the breakfast buffet a great bonus. We are going to pay for the motorbike plus driver/guide who speaks well English 12.000K pp for a whole day (08.30 am - 7pm). We pay 1.000K for short rides in town on the back of a motorbike (they drive super safe!). We paid 2.300K for a giant burger and 1.600 for a giant plate of french fries. And if you like red wine, the V Bar is your place. Not too bad wine for only 1.000K a glass</strong>. </span></div>
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<span style="color: #ff9a00; font-family: Courier New; font-size: large;"><strong>Day 6: Mandalay - Wow wow wowwwwwwer!</strong></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Courier New;">7.30am and my iPhone brutally wakes me up. A quick shower and breakfast and a few chats with the people I met in the hotel during my nightly internet sessions (I am not the only one with wifi issues. Whole groups of tourist hang around that one spot where wifi might be available).</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Courier New;">A funky group of 11 Singapore people on their BMW's motorbikes doing a tour through Myanmar (all the way from Singapore!!) Every morning when they leave the hotel there is 'a Myanmar guy' showing up on his motorbike who follows them. Every town a different one. According to their guide this is for safety reasons...right! You can follow her on: <strong><a href="http://www.mrrrmrrr.tumbler.com/" target="_self" title=""><span style="color: #ff9a00;">mrrrmrrr.tumbler.com</span></a></strong></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Courier New;">We met Lámyou who brought his brother Timyou for the trip. Timyou made different choices in life and became a motorbike mechanic. He doesn't speak English.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Courier New;">Let me start with a short description of Lámyou, because we think he is very special (we know this now after a full day with him :-).</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Courier New;">Lámyou speaks very well English and he laughs all the time. A very addictive laugh :-) He's a very intelligent, smart father who got married 3 years ago. He has a daughter of 1,5 years old who, so he says, breaks your heart when she moves her hands 'Gangnam style wise'. Lámyou takes care of his mother while his father died of a heart attack several years back. I think you might call him a true entrepreneur. He learnt English on his own (because at school they pronounce the words wrongly, he said) and he started up several businesses like exporting Myanmar clothes, a trishaw guide and motorbike driver. You can hire bikes at his sister's place and he is available as a guide. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Courier New;">He was invited by an Australian lady Judyth Gregory-Smith to visit her in Australia, so he has been travelling for a while in Australia. Judith wrote 'Myanmar a memoir of loss and recovery' (Read an interview with this special Australian writer, also about Lámyou -she names him Kyar Min because of certain reasons back then- click <strong><span style="color: orange;"><a href="http://garlicneversleeps.wordpress.com/2012/08/30/judyths-myanmar-memoir/" target="_self" title=""></a><a href="https://www.google.nl/search?q='Myanmar+a+memoir+of+loss+and+recovery'&ie=UTF-8&oe=UTF-8&hl=nl&client=safari" target="_blank" title="">here</a></span></strong>).</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Courier New;">He does not have an official tourist guide license (which is very hard to get in Myanmar), but I am sure that he's better then most of the official guides we saw. Only his positive thinking and humor is why you should be with him.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Courier New';">We made a logic itinerary together for the day (he has plenty of suggestions) and hit the road while singing <i>'hit the road Jack and don't you come back no more more..'</i>. Funny! Traffic is totally crazy in Myanmar but we knew that and were prepared for some heavy lung pollution. Lamyou and his brother drove safe on their nice motorbikes. Our first stop was the sacred 'Mahamuni Paya'.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Courier New;">Lamyou explained us all about it and I realised how great it is to get detailed explanation of the things we see. I was very impressed when I saw the big Buddha covered with thick layers of gold leaves, men put on him. The Buddha is twice as fat now as he was in 1901 when he started his life. Many ladies peacefully sat in front of him in total devotion. Klaas was allowed to go all the way to the Buddha and found it very spectacular. Certainly to see all the men covering the Buddha with their gold leaves (10 pieces of gold leaf 2x2 cm cost 7.000K = 7€).</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Courier New';">After we got our share of religion, we hit the road again towards the marble stone and wood carving street. Again, wow! All these artistic people making such nice sculptures out of massive blocks of marble and wood. The patience this whole process takes, I am so impressed. The trees in the marble street were all totally white which made me want to sing Mariah Carrey's <i>'All I want for Chistmas...'</i>. By the way they hardly tried to sell us anything, which I liked a lot.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: 'Courier New';">Then it was finally time for the big tourist explosion: the monks who get their meal near the U-Bein's bridge monastery 'Mahaganayon Kyaung'. After reading Susie here story on Tripadvisor we were prepared for some shameful moments. She didn't say one word too much. Our pics actually didn't came out that great, because we felt so miserable surrounded by so many silly (group) tourists, that we just couldn't concentrate ourselves. We took a few pics and left. It is indeed astonishing what happens there, but the 200 flashing camera's in the monks faces were just unbearable for us, certainly Klaas felt totally depressed afterwards.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Courier New';">What I found really fascinating to see, is a lot of poor kids begging for food with the monks. They are all so adorable but at the same time it's breaking one's heart to see four year old's carrying babies around. Sadly enough I am almost used to this, after seeing so many of them.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Courier New;">Back on the road again, we crossed the river by a big new iron bridge (Saigan bridge) and entered 'The stairway to Soon U Ponya Shin Paya and Sagaing Hill'. The views were amazing. From the top of the hill we took some pics and Lamyou took us to his village. Very rural, maybe I can say poor. But what struck us the most was the fact that the people looked much happier then in town. We loved driving around on the back of these motorbikes. No pollution, only waving kids, nature and simple bamboo huts (we tried to ignore all the rivers filled with plastic and other dirt).</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Courier New';">We like to talk to the kids and fool around with them. They are so open, but shy (in the beginning). These kids on the pics are carrying wood from land into boats. Child labour 100% so that's why we give small things away that they can use. No candy, no money, we brought some key chain hangers from my former work place. Useful for many things. They really like it. In return they let me carry some wood on my head. Right. Piece of cake...NOT!</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Courier New';">Carrying wood makes a woman hungry so we decided to head back towards the U-Bein bridge for the afternoon. Along the way the brothers found a great place for lunch. All together we paid 10.000K for beer and four great dishes.</span></div>
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<strong style="font-family: 'Courier New';">Read the rest of my adventures in Mandalay in the next chapter!</strong></div>
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Whatelleshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02243872263855557277noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4157482893926026680.post-37097705365545220402013-01-08T07:29:00.001-08:002014-11-09T01:43:09.414-08:00Yangon and a tiny bit(e) of Bangkok<div>
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<span style="font-family: Courier New;"><b>Always (NOT) looking forward to sit eleven hours in a plane filled with retired old people all nearby a total nervous breakdown while checking their tickets so often that everything gets lost and mixed up just before boarding...Eventually they all end up being the last ones in the queue. (By the way: anti flew injections for the elderly do not work- my god was I on a sick leave holiday plane or what?).</b></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Courier New;">Or on the bad hair day trip? I saw several people with their hair dyed in purple, black and blond strains (mother and daughter both exactly the same!!!). No I kid you not!. And they all speak a kind of Dutch regional language I am not familiar with. Well, flying makes me wonder a lot. Understatement. For sure I find much inspiration for my Dutch blogs I write for Esta. Let's say hurray for that :-) Anyway, here I am sitting at my Myanmar desk in the middle of Yangon. Some crazy kind of bright pink Hello Kitty desk lamp (yes she found here way to Myanmar too) lightens my desk.</span></b></div>
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<span style="font-family: Courier New;"><b>It wasn't easy to set this whole thing up. Wifi is rare in Myanmar and if it is available you have to try at least six times to log in to, and if you succeed in doing that properly....it goes as slow as turtle. Blogging on an iPad and having three camera's to sinc with it is, well let's call it climbing the virtual Mount Everest. Well so much for the complaining Elles!!! Helloooo I am on holiday and as of now I am totally open minded and doing the utmost to get down with the Burmese flow.... (at least I will try).</b></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Courier New;"><b>So, our night flight wit EVA went smooth and I didn't catch the flew. Arriving in BKK going from international to national with the FREE SHUTTLE (nobody seems to know that on TripAdvisor) checking in @Amari. A giant hotel with a bright shiny reception and totally run down hall ways but perfect well equipped airy rooms (recommendation). In an hour or so we got what we wanted: the fulfillment of our most desired wish: a food court in 'da neighborhood'. Hell yes, only 55 baht taxi fare to get us to Foodland. What's in the name??</b></span></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Courier New;">Well we happy, they happy. We spend all over the place some 6$ and they got a lot of compliments for that and we got the best cheap food in the world. Well the rest night finishes pretty low brow. We went to bed exhausted at 9pm </span><span style="font-family: 'Courier New';">(and yes our hidden money was still there in between two curtains :-)</span></b></div>
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<span style="font-family: Courier New;"><b>We woke up in our white fluffy far too comfortable beds @ 8am. Great night sleep, great shower, great swimming pool, great breakfast.....well....? </b></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: 'Courier New';">A bunge of Chinese people took over the breakfast area. Ever seen a Chinese eat and talk? Well I thought I did but after this morning I am sure I only saw Dutch Chinese. I was totally shocked by the real Chinese people. They are so rude: they eat their food directly from the buffet with their chopsticks (really!) and they scream, fart and blurb...all the same time. The lovely Thai waitresses are less then a dog in their eyes. I was so incredibly horrified but my boyfriend did not allow me to lecture them. I know...he has a point.</span></b><br />
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<span style="font-family: 'Courier New';">Our hotel is attached to the airport and within a fart (Dutch :-) we checked ourselves in for the Air Asia flight to Yangon. Not bad this low budget carrier. They texted me the day before that the plane would be delayed by 1 hour. That's great service.</span></b><br />
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<span style="font-family: 'Courier New';">We arrived in Yangon one hour later. All went smooth and easy going. Klaas and me are maybe, for others, the ultimate nightmare travelers. When we jump out of the plane, we practically run to immigrations. Saves us at least 1 hour queueing up. While Klaas gets our luggage from the belt, I go for the money exchange experience.</span></b><br />
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<span style="font-family: Courier New;"><b>Traveller facts: the Amari hotel is perfect when you fly from Don Muang airport. It cost through Yeego.com only 40€ a night. The breakfast is great as well as the swimming pool. From Suvarnabhumi to Don Muang by shuttle bus -on the 2nd floor- is free.</b></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Courier New;"><b>We figured out through Tripadvisor that the Dollar vs. Kyatt rate is great at the airport so I ended up changing 1.000$ and Klaas had to help me carrying all the stacks of money. For the record: there are no ATM's in Myanmar, you cannot pay with your credit card and you have to bring unused pristine dollars otherwise they won't except them. So we got for a couple of thousand dollars in pristine notes from the bank at the airport in Amsterdam. No other bank facilitate this in our country.</b></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Courier New;"><b>So we are now the proud owners of nine stacks (with paper band) of Kyatts and that feels pretty rich. </b></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Courier New;"><b>It was all so hilarious at the money change desk. All these travelers looking so uncomfortable with so much kilo's of Kyatt. </b></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Courier New;">We took a cab outside the airport (easy to find) who brought us for 6.000 Kyatt downtown to our guesthouse: the Sunflower. Wow, the traffic is horrible in Yangon. Many traffic jams and total organized chaos. Unfortunately our hotel didn't have our reservation in their system (we had their confirmation with us??) and they were full. Bummer! But luckily for us, their other hotel around the corner had availability and now we sleep in the May Flower Inn, a brand new hotel for only 45$ a night which is a bargain (really!) for Yangon at this moment.</span></b></div>
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<span style="font-family: Courier New;"><b>The room is pretty big and clean. Bed comfy enough and hot water. After freshening up we went into town to see our travel agent to pay her for all the plain tickets she booked for us. Her name is May and she works at the Peace House Travel. She a lovely lady who really took great care of our travel wishes. Her English is very good and she replied promptly online. I bought her a necklace and earrings as a gift for all her help. Felt totally ridiculous in a way because she has a whole bunch of employees who I should have given anything too! We chatted about her life and about the (political) situation (after asking if this was okay), no problem this subject. </b></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Courier New;">She is quite frustrated about the rates going up so very fast. She has to sell hotel rooms for triple the price and she's ashamed of it towards her clients (who demand better value for the money). Maybe we travelers/tourist have to except this? There is such a shortage of accommodation that prices totally go over the top: the downside of opening the borders. It just goes too fast. </span></b><br />
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<span style="font-family: Courier New;">For dinner we went across the street for the best Myanmar food (according to the bible). The place is called: 'Danuphuyu Daw Saw Yee Myanmar'. I have by the way no idea how to pronounce that...</span></b><br />
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<span style="font-family: Courier New;"><b>Half of the population was Burmese the other half was carrying <i>the bible</i>. It always scares me a bit that the Lonely Planet basically decides for us where we eat. But it must be said, the food was great and we ended up chatting with a couple from Canada. These moments we cherish so much.</b></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Courier New;"><b>Traveller facts: beer 2.000K / food depends: we had river crab(expensive)and 2 plates of vegetables and some fish cookies which was all together 11.000K. Taxi from airport downtown: 6.000K. Hotel 45$ (but that was the going rate for January. In February it will be at least 50$).</b></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Courier New;"><b>We started with breakfast after a pretty okay & silent night. The breakfast is being served in a room without a window and food wise there is not much choice. Myanmar noodles, eggs with tasteless white bread or French toast along with a good coffee. The atmosphere in the windowless room did not appeal to us much so we did a quick breaky and left. I guess having breakfast in Myanmar isn't going to be one of this trip's highlights.</b></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Courier New';"><b>Who cares anyway? We decided to do the walking tour the bible suggests and along the way grab a café latte. We found a great place called 'Cafe KSS' where they not only made a great big Italian coffee (by a true barista) they also threw in some fantastic house music from back in the days, and really really really loud.</b></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Courier New;"><b>It was utterly cute that they thought they made us feel at home by playing this music. As a token of our appreciation, Klaas and me did some Gangnam style moves on our chairs while sipping our lattes. The rest of the day we walked, photographed, smiled, wondered mainly downtown and had lunch in a Japanese place were I had sushi en miso soup and Klaas a plate of fantastic noodles. We also did the Bogyoke Aung San market where we finally discovered where all the tourists were hidden. Don't we just love to buy jewelry, bags and other tourist 'crap'?? </b></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Courier New;"><b>Anyway we saw many Americans and French people. The last species are truly funny since they negotiate by talking real loud in French. I love to observe these tourists a lot. But one thing bothers me: the big groups with people all wearing these bright colored stickers on the chest and a very expensive camera with a very loooooong lens. They often wear fluorescent white socks, stuck into brand new TEVA gear and to top it all off they wear such a silly bamboo hat. Klaas said: 'They remind me of the former colonial dictators'. They stick close to the guide and they talk very loud to each other, like: <i>'HEY DICK, DID YOU SEE THAT WOMAN WITH THE WHITE PAINT ON HERE FACE? THAT LOOKS REALLY STUPID, MUST BE SOME KIND OF TRADITION...DON'T YOU AGREE?'</i></b></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Courier New;"><b>Well I don't like this kind of tourism and although I offend a lot of people right now, I am afraid that the local people just don't benefit at all by welcoming them. Only the wrong (government) people....But that's just my opinion.</b></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Courier New;"><b>That night we wanted to have dinner at 'Japan Japan', according to the bible a great Japanese restaurant. When we arrived the place was empty so we decided to go to the Coriander Leaf. I read some good Tripadvisor reports about this place. We flagged down a cab (not that easy in Yangon) and started the whole hassle about the price. The don't have meters so every ride begins with the bargain game. We ended up paying the driver 2.000K (after a while we figured out that this is about the price for any ride in the city center; 5 minutes or 15 minutes drive, same price). The Coriander Leaf was a fancy upscale place that we found too expensive (7.000K for a curry).</b></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Courier New;"><b>So what now (we are really keen on good but reasonable priced food)? We took a look in our own home made guide (research research research!) and decided to go to 'Feel Myanmar Food'. That was the best decision we could possibly have made for Yangon. The taxi dropped us of (2 minutes in the cab) in front of a vibrant, tidy and cosy in/outside restaurant with a lot of cheerful eating people (locals-expats-tourists). We got a table and a beer in a split second and then they pushed us towards the buffet were we found a diversity of mouthwatering dishes. The whole staff seemed to enjoy our approach and the way we appreciated all the food, while yelling 'ooooh & aaaah' a lot. We pointed out several dishes that looked recognizable which they brought to the table within 5 minutes. In the meantime I discovered they had super fast internet. Wow, I could upload my blog (and pics).</b></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Courier New;"><b>The food was yummy, just delicious! We drank a couple of bottles of Myanmar beer and stayed till late because of the working super fast internet. The blog frustrated me so much. I could not seem to figure out how certain things work (maybe Blogsy isn't that great after all?). Klaas and me got in a fight over it (he says I have to except that it will not turn out the way I want to because of the poor internet situation and my lack of Blogsy knowledge. Which of course I didn't agree with!).</b></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Courier New;"><b>Traveller facts: beer 2.000K @Feel Myanmar. Food between 1.000/2.000K per dish. Taxi downtown to 'Feel Myanmar' 2.000K</b></span></div>
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<span style="color: #ff9a00; font-family: Courier New;"><span style="font-size: x-large;">Day 3: Yangon - Gold Golder Goldest</span><span style="font-size: small;"> (it's not always what it looks like)</span></span></b></div>
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<span style="font-family: Courier New;"><b>It was a tiring 2nd day so we slept in, till 10.30 AM. We are that kind of travelers :-). After a slow start up we tried to find a place for a decent breakfast but that just doesn't exist in Myanmar. I really have to stop desiring for good coffee latte, some yogurt with cereals and fruit in the morning. We tried to find Café Aroma (according to the LP this might be a place for a sandwich and coffee) while we bumped into two Myanmar students (history and fine arts) who told us that Café Aroma was closed for renovation. </b></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Courier New;">They invited us to their monastery 'no name - for safety reasons' that afternoon for a tour. After we finally found a place for our brunch @ the most vibrant teahouse of Yangon, Lucky Seven, we took a cab and met K. and Ko S. They showed us around the buildings where they live together with the monks. It all looks incredibly poor. The wooden floors all have holes and the roof is not waterproof either. Imagine when it rains. No you don't want that! Ko S and K. sleep together in one bed without a mattress, only a mat and a small pillow on hard wood. Some of the monks in this monastery were in prison for a long time (because of their believe in the NLD) and most of them joined the demonstrations back in 2007 and spent also time in prison.</span></b></div>
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<span style="font-family: Courier New;">We got so much information this afternoon. The whole military system made me feel so sick. One example: because of the demonstrations the leader of the monastery, who is very sick right now, cannot go to a public hospital anymore. He has to go to a private hospital (expensive). The list of shameful situations is endless and I find it very difficult what to say to them. So I just basically listen and tell them how sorry I feel. </span></b></div>
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<span style="font-family: Courier New;">After the tour we offered them a refreshment in a nearby café. Since they follow the monks rules they are not allowed to eat after 12 pm. Monks apparently only eat an early breakfast and have lunch. Klaas gave Ko S 10$ as a donation for the medicines of the head monk. What happened then was kind of strange. They did not seem to appreciate our gesture.</span></b></div>
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<span style="font-family: Courier New;"><b>Mmmm..we felt awkward. Then Klaas figured out that they wanted Kyatt instead of dollars. So we asked if they wanted kyatts instead. They answered that they wanted kyatts and dollars because, so they say, they explained to us how much work needed to be done at the monastery buildings and how expensive the the (good) meds are in Myanmar.</b></span></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Courier New;">I was kind of intimidated by the two and totally didn't know how to handle the situation. Klaas and me both started to explain that we might look very rich and that we are in their eyes but that generosity is something we decide for ourselves and that asking for more money makes us feel very uncomfy. Actually I don't remember anymore what I said, but I felt such an enormous uncomfortable feeling coming over me (was this all a scam?). I stood up, thanked them for their kindness and I basically demanded Klaas to stand up too. He did, and we left. Outside we looked at each other in disbelieve. Did we do any ting wrong? Somebody knows what the f... happened here? </span><span style="font-family: 'Courier New';">Please explain to us.</span></b><br />
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<span style="font-family: 'Courier New';"><b>Anyways, not too much time to think about it all because the Shwedagon Paya was waiting for us. The Shwedagon is a magical place. I have never seen such an enormous pile of gold (sorry missing English language skills to explain it more subtle) surrounded by uncountable pagoda's (also executed in flashy, shinny gold and sometimes helped by flickering led lightning. Why they choose for that is a mystery to me; it looks so cheap and tacky). </b></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Courier New';"><b>After removing our flip flops and paying 5$ we were allowed to stroll around this amazing sacred place Obama also did, just a while before us. I was kidding with the ladies of the ticket booth asking then where Obama put his name on the visitors list, but they looked very serious at me and told me that Barak was a VIP and he didn't have to pay for the Shwedagon! Eventually they understood that I was fooling around and they laughed out loud. </b></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Courier New';"><b>We spent half a day at the Pagoda and left after all the oil candles were led. I guess about 500 of them! A dozen of people do this as a volunteer job, day in day out, while the other volunteers (the cleaners) sing and chant. It was all so fantastic, almost spiritual.</b></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Courier New;"><b>We decided to go back to the 'Feel Myanmar restaurant' where everybody remembered us.</b></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Courier New;"><b>I decided not get all upset about my blogging, but as usual I couldn't get a grip on myself, so I tried again for hours (!) to do it all over again, and *&(*^*&%E$*C it just didn't work. I cannot upload pics because of the weak internet signal here in Myanmar & uploading only my stories seems also impossible. I went to bed quit upset, but my favorite Dutch writer (Ronald Giphart) made me laugh with his book (Ten Liefde).</b></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Courier New;"><b>Traveller facts: beer 2.000K @Feel Myanmar. Small bites between 500/1.000K per set. Taxi: see day before. Sponsoring the monastery: 10$ (but I forgot an extra zero after the ten $ to pay..)</b></span></div>
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Whatelleshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02243872263855557277noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4157482893926026680.post-42868427054810844962012-12-30T08:33:00.002-08:002014-11-09T01:43:31.662-08:00Preparing for a month Myanmar<h4>
<span style="color: orange; font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace; font-size: large;">Almost time to go</span></h4>
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<span style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;"><b>Only seven days to go and then we will finally cross the border from Thailand to Myanmar. We are so extremely excited! We will stay in Myanmar the full -legal- length: 28 days! I've been in Myanmar before, about 8 years ago, but only for six days and with a broken heart. Despite that, my time in Myanmar was definitely the highlight of my solo travels. I've always promised myself to return (with a steady love) and spent much more time in this amazing country.</b></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0A0StI3pBKtvDMriUxkrZvGPheR4-LJLnAoMOaEOc3Fbt4qpUYBOjO1cFrF3EHkatQPXZYbDcdSaiDzMmQco6D-C_N8UvG-C0AETImayBi_wBWzWL-G9cE2SfUua1JElxXUXF5sDO2IM/s1600/iPad.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><b><img alt="" border="0" class="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0A0StI3pBKtvDMriUxkrZvGPheR4-LJLnAoMOaEOc3Fbt4qpUYBOjO1cFrF3EHkatQPXZYbDcdSaiDzMmQco6D-C_N8UvG-C0AETImayBi_wBWzWL-G9cE2SfUua1JElxXUXF5sDO2IM/s200/iPad.jpg" height="200" id="blogsy-1358868295038.5347" width="150" /></b></a><span style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;"><b>Soulmate Klaas was also very ready to discover Myanmar and decided to empty his agenda for -hell yeah- five weeks.</b></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;"><b>We will explore Myanmar for a whole month and finish the trip in the coolest city on earth: Bangkok (fooooood!!!)</b></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Courier New, Courier, monospace;"><b>About 3 months ago we started to prepare for the journey. Tripadvisor, Thorntree and Google became our best digital friends. Thanks to so many great reports from travellers who posted their adventures, feelings, tips & tricks online, we were able to prepare and enjoy ourselves to the fullest. We have to be prepared since Myanmare is flooded with tourists these days. With a limited amount of rooms available and travelling in peak season, we decided to book our flights and guesthouses in advance. Not very adventurous maybe, but wise instead.</b></span></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Courier New, Courier, monospace;"><br /></span><span style="font-family: Courier New, Courier, monospace;">Things change rapidly in Myanmar and although we've read quite a bit, we've no idea what to expect. Anyway, o</span><span style="font-family: Courier New, Courier, monospace;">ur iPad is totally fine-tuned with all the latest blog apps (I love Blogsy) so we will be able to let all of you readers enjoy Myanmar too, although (fast) wifi will be a challenge! </span><span style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;">If you are interested how our itinerary for the next 5 weeks looks like, click </span><a href="https://dl.dropbox.com/u/123454041/Myanmar/pdf/myanmar%20schema.pdf" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;" target="_blank">here</a><span style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;"> (Klaas is a big fan of excel :-)</span></b></div>
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<span style="font-family: Courier New, Courier, monospace;"><b>Elles</b></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Courier New, Courier, monospace;"><b>Traveller facts: I like to thank some Tripadvisor contributors who wrote such a lovely reports that helped us enormously with our itinerary and preparations in all kind of ways: <span style="color: #ff9a00;">Silverswimmer, Susie StAustin and Lissie45</span>. A deep bow for you guys! Because of you, we could make our own travel guide. I tried to avoid buying a Lonely Planet but in the end I could not resist doing so, because of all the practical maps. Although the rest of <em>the bible</em> -which is only one year old- is already totally outdated unfortunately. Keep that in mind when you buy it.</b></span><br />
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